DIY cable moling

[AJH]

This is what I did many years ago to get a new water main under the drive to our tied cottage. As the ground the opposite side of the drive was lower I only needed a shallow trench that side and a 4ft deep hole on the interception side. I pinched a scaffold pole long enough to reach, welded a spike to the end and hammered it under. Once through I cut off the spike and hammered end and left in situ with the alkathene pipe passed through it.

Incidentally I have been watching Esso moling a 9" steel pipe, when out walking, but not been close enough to see whether it is pushed or pulled, I also cannot understand why then didn't trench and backfill as it is open country albeit a national nature reserve.

[Animal]

you're very optimistic about human nature

[alan_m]

Unless the mole is removing the material in a controlled way the path blocks could to be pushed up especially if the mole operation is close to the surface.

A DIY mole operation is likely to require a trench the length of the mole pipe. If the ground under the path has been highly compacted (as it should have been if the block path was laid correctly) then punching a pipe under the path may be as difficult or time consuming as removing the blocks and digging the trench.

[Animal]

I admit I don't see what the problem is with lifting some blocks. It's not hard to re-lay a small area.

[www.GymRats.uk]

Don't fear the block paving. I was forced to re-pack/lay about a 2' square area where the skip lorry sunk a leg making a big crater. Just back-filled with what was on hand (dust to chippings in this case) re-layed the blocks and bedded them in with a lump hammer and some blocks of wood. Easy to lift a block and scoop a bit of back-filling out if you over fill.

Cheers - Pete

[Tim+]

I?m coming round to just lifting a line of blocks. It will make the cable run considerably shorter.

Tim