Seems to me everything is disposable these days, hardpoint saws - chuck them away & buy a new one, cheaper than getting them sharpened, Stanley knife blades have always been disposable, I've got a Stanley plane with disposable blades, circular saw blades - cheaper to buy a new one, same with drill bits really.
But why not chisels? I don't use them often, but I like them sharp. PITA sharpening chisels & I really don't have the time.
Does such a thing exist?
Get your grandaughter to sharpen them for you while you build her that rubber band gun!
Peter
if you don't use them often they don't need sharpening that often either :-) and it takes next to no time to sharpen one if its not been abused
I think a lot of carpenters just use Aldidly screwdriver sets and a big hammer for this purpose.
Owain
You can get chisels for 33p, but at those sort of prices they dont come sharpened - or even ground down to an edge, so dont fit your requirement.
Chisels are quick & easy to resharpen if youre not going to use them for fine finish work, just use an angle grinder, light pressure and plenty of rest time so it doesnt get too hot. Fine for rough and middling work.
NT
Really? Typical job might be chopping out a mortice for a lock (after drilling out waste). Nothing that would show.
I've got a Rexon bench belt sander - that do?
I felt the same way until I discovered the 'Scary Sharp' method of sharpening. A piece of plate glass, ten or so increasingly fine grades of emery paper stuck down with 3M spray adhesive. Start with the 80 grit and move up to the 1500 grit - ten minutes max.
Of course it doesn't work if you use your chisels as screwdrivers or to open paint cans, but for normally worn chisels it's too easy to miss.
R.
Well theyre fine for that. 3 for =A31 at poundland - but gotta grind em first. I use such chisels for any job where they're liable to get damaged - abuse them any way you like at that price.
I've never tried doing it that way. I use the angle grinder for a lot of sharpening (with a grit disc) as its so quick & convenient. The result is quite sharp, though certainly not razor sharp. The main issue is that the grit speed is way above ideal, so continuous grinding would overheat the metal quickly, ruining it. Solution: use minimum pressure, grind for 20 secs max, let it cool 30 secs before continuing. Very fast way to work.
NT
Use these for the jobs that ruin saws and keep the Disston saws for the good work - pays dividends.
(snipped) cheaper than getting them sharpened,
But YOU break a saw in to the feel of your hand - what's the matter, 3 months of research didn't teach how to sharpen and set a hand or tenon saw - bloody Philistine!
That's not a tool - it's a D-i-Y toy - a bit like that Tonka toy you've got as a van!
circular saw blades - cheaper to buy a
Depends on what you mean by a circular saw - the one with a 6" blade or the proper one with a 3 foot blade?
What's the matter Dave, don't you *KNOW* how to sharpen a drill bit? Easiest thing in the world to do, and I wouldn't dream of throwing a drill bit away - unless it's broken or the temper or tungsten bit has gone through heat - believe it or not, I've still got 1/2" drill bits from my apprenticeship days.
That's what separates the tradesmen from the *HANDYMEN* Dave. *NO* self respecting tradesman would spend months breaking-in new, high quality tools and then *THROW* them away because they're *blunt* - and they actually make time during the day for "tool maintenance".
It's a PITA to buy and break in new tools - bloody amateur!
Yes, you buy them from the likes of the Pound shop or the local market!
Tanner-'op
That's when you need a sharp, good quality wood chisel the most - especially on an internal door.
And you reckon that you do "a *good* class of work! I'd hate to come behind you and put that job right, especially if was a hardwood door - or even a "printed" finished 'mock' hardwood (softwood) one!
Funnily enough, if you know what you're doing (and you obviously don't) you can make a great job of grinding a correct bevel into a chisel with one - and then use the old Arkansas oil stone to finish it off with an extremely sharp edge.
Tanner-'op
Quicker and a much better job with a router, a mortice cutter and a simple jig.
Colin Bignell
I use an oil stone, its twenty years old.
I now have some diamond plates that I can use for rough grinding without getting the bench grinder out.
Its easy to sharpen chisels and plane irons.
El cheapo chisel and a belt sander will give a workable disposable tool without much fuss.
I have a friend who a chippy, and most of his chisel collection he treats with no care at all (he does tend to buy the 10 for £20 packs!) on the grounds that he can use them in all sorts of ways for unorthodox things and not have to worry about damaging the tool. Over the years I have seen him strip tiles, cut pipes, chase walls, lift paving blocks and carry out many other "non conventional" jobs with chisels, because it "gets the job done" and the cost of the tool can be easily accounted for in the reduction in time to do the job. On the odd occasion he needs a sharp chisel, a bench grinder or belt sander will be pressed into service.
He says "any fool can do the job with the right tools, it takes skill to do it without them!" (I watched him do the skirtings in a large conservatory the other day - total tool set on site: one jack saw, one pencil, one tape measure, one Makita combi, and some plugs and screws. All mitres cut freehand without the aid of even a combination square. All internal joints scribed with the complicated bit "sawn" out with the panel saw rather than a coping saw! Perfect result, about 90 mins duration including fixing.
You can't sharpen a hard point saw...
Yep and it makes a tremendous difference to how well they drill holes. Also drills straight from the packet/shop are not really sharp either.
More of a quick couple of swipes on the stone when the edge starts to go rather than waiting 'till it's blunt and requireing 5 or 10 mins to get the edge back.
An angle grinder? Don't you mean a bench grinder, followed by an oilstone?
I get the idea that all former joiner finesse is disappearing rapidly...
:-)
no. Angle grinders can sharpen a whole pile of things very quickly, and give a good enough edge for drill bits, and various tools that dont need the finest sharpness.
There's always non-fine work to do too. Why spend extra time on it for the same result?
NT
A lot of people will also need a jig to hold the chisel at the same angle on two different strokes.
Colin Bignell
I agree, although with practice it's not necessary for the touch-up sharpening to put an edge back on a well profiled chisel. This is good:
R.
Brian - you really are a bullying wanker. If you're such a hotshot, how come you live in a council house in Caerphilly?
My Grandad used to sharpen his own saws, unfortunately he passed away before I got the chance to learn. So, how does one sharpen a hardpoint saw?
MBQ
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