Disconnecting Solvent weld corner

I am having the outside of my house rendered so everything has to be remove d from the outside walls. This has all gone smoothly except for one solvent weld pipe (40mm), it has a right angle into the drain but its connected in side the wall which means the pipe work is too close to the wall to get the render behind. Is there any way to connect to the corner without digging o ut the wall or damaging the kitchen to bring it out 20mm. Thanks
Steve Jones
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On Tuesday, 30 January 2018 12:11:02 UTC, Steve Jones wrote:

ved from the outside walls. This has all gone smoothly except for one solve nt weld pipe (40mm), it has a right angle into the drain but its connected inside the wall which means the pipe work is too close to the wall to get t he render behind. Is there any way to connect to the corner without digging out the wall or damaging the kitchen to bring it out 20mm.

Connect or disconnect or what?
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On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 12:29:10 PM UTC, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

moved from the outside walls. This has all gone smoothly except for one sol vent weld pipe (40mm), it has a right angle into the drain but its connecte d inside the wall which means the pipe work is too close to the wall to get the render behind. Is there any way to connect to the corner without diggi ng out the wall or damaging the kitchen to bring it out 20mm.

I am trying to bring the pipe out from the wall. The join is inside the wal l so a pipe extension piece wont work. Is there a solvent weld that can go over the old join?
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Assuming the pipe goes straight through the wall to the inside, I’d be cutting and rejoining it inside the house.
Tim
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On Tuesday, 30 January 2018 12:32:48 UTC, Steve Jones wrote:

removed from the outside walls. This has all gone smoothly except for one s olvent weld pipe (40mm), it has a right angle into the drain but its connec ted inside the wall which means the pipe work is too close to the wall to g et the render behind. Is there any way to connect to the corner without dig ging out the wall or damaging the kitchen to bring it out 20mm.

all so a pipe extension piece wont work. Is there a solvent weld that can g o over the old join?
You're just not giving the info needed.
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No. Once the solvent glue is set, that's it. Only way is to cut it off and extend.
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Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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On 30-Jan-18 12:10 PM, Steve Jones wrote:

Why would you need to damage the kitchen to extend the pipe? It should run back to a trap, where there may well be a compression fitting you can undo to replace all the pipe after that. If the trap is solvent welded as well, there will usually be at least a short run of pipe where you can fit a straight socket, to extend the pipework. I would avoid anything that involves trying to make a connection inside a wall, where you can't easily check it for leaks.
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Colin Bignell
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Steve Jones wrote:

Hacksaw (or multitool) and a new elbow.
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You reckon if cut the elbow in two and split the part over the pipe you can get it off? I've done that before, but not sure if it's always possible?
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Roger Hayter

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They don't easily disconnect unless they have been badly made joints to start with. Easiest would be to cut the pipe inside well away from the wall, or disconnect if there is a compression fitting to the waste. Pull out the pipe through the wall from the outside and after the rendering is done replace the outside pipe and the one through the wall. At some point an extra joint may be needed if all the outside pipe is solvent weld, and it may be possible to put a coupler somewhere inconspicuous. it will be necessary to open up the hole in the new render and make good round the new outside elbow. With mortar or acrylic caulk for outside use.
--

Roger Hayter

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Or the old trick of using a smaller pipe inside the cut off old one of course. Brian
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On 30/01/2018 20:12, Brian Gaff wrote:

OP doesn't really give enough detail, but yes that could be the simplest way.
Copper pipe comes in 28, 35, 42 mm OD with solder fittings available. With enough overlap, silicone rubber should give an adequate seal. You can also wrap the inner pipe with PVC electrical tape so as to make it a tight push fit.
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On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 9:48:41 PM UTC, newshound wrote:

Thanks, I took your advice and extended inside the house to push it out from the wall, it was more accessible than expected.
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