Dali Kubik One

pinnerite snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote

I don't fine that a problem with plug boards done that way.

Its really just a matter of how far the screws are screwed into the rawlplug.

this means you could get vibration if the sound levels are high enough. One answer is to have a suitable soft packing between the bar and the wall. Something like stick-on window draught strip might be suitable, you might prefer something thicker. You need to compress the packing sufficiently to allow the screws to engage, but leaving the packing sufficiently compressed to suppress "rattle". You could use metal springs.

If it rattles, you need to put the screw a bit further into the wall, so there isn't any slack.

I do often wonder how many people have a perfectly adequate sound system of however many channels in the same room but go out and buy a sound bar, which in the main is not as well specified as the sound system in the first place. Brian

If you use countersunk screws you can fine tune the tightness

I recently had to hang a Netgear Switch on a couple of woodscrews. This is only a few inches across yet was a nightmare to get the tension right. There are better ways of designing things. My first Switch slid diown onto a purpose-designed plate that was held by two screws. As the Switch was lowered onto the plate (actually two of them), it tightened. Gravity held it there. A couple of keyholes that are place so that you cannot get to the heads of the screws without removing the device is just a throwaway solution.

I was hoping to hear from someone who had actually mounted one of these.

However, as usual the suggestions here invariably lead to motivating the brain cells. I may line the rear edges with draught excluder strip before pressing it onto the screw heads.

Thank you and everyone who replied for their help.

Alan

I have a perfectly good sound system which can be fed from my main tv. the tv in the kitchen benefits from a sound bar - as does this computer.

I normally use countersunk screws, because that's what I have, but my impression is that pan head would be better. (I usually only do this for extension sockets.)

I have an excellent HiFi in the same room as the TV, but am considering buying a soundbar. The HiFi speakers are positioned directly opposite the settee for the best listening position, while the TV is in the corner, for the best viewing position from more than one location in the room. It's no good having stereo sound for the TV, when the audio and visual source positions aren't matched.

and round head a tad better still as they add an element of "self-centering" when mounting - though that may be just my delusion

Make a sub-base, slightly larger than the bar, with counterbored holes for soundbar fixings. Attach bar to sub-base (nuts and csk screw, tightened from the back). Attach sub-base to wall. If the soundbar fixings are int he central area I'd be tempted to use the narrowest possible sub-base.

if you have an impact driver, screws are always tight :-)

Stick some EPDM offcuts on the back to avoid tranfering vibration into the wall ?

Beware, it has no HDMI connections which is why the price has halved in the last 12 months.

Everyone seems to want a wall mounted TV. So likely not between the speakers of an existing stereo - if indeed there is one. And TV internal sound is still rubbish - regardless of how much you pay for the TV.

It does seem odd to me. You pay a fortune for a TV which has no speakers to the front. Then pay extra for a sound bar which has. Why not make a TV which combines them - it would be a cost saving.

I have a decent sound system in the kitchen anyway - I spend as much time there as the living room. So feed the kitchen TV through that.

Even with enhanced stereo effects a soundbar doesn't really immerse the viewer in the sound, no matter how swanky it is.

Trouble is a multi speaker system needs wires. Two speakers are okay but four or more could be a nuisance.

I'm lucky in that my old house makes wiring easier than most.

But there are various speaker systems around these days that only need mains and use a Blutooth etc connection for the audio.

It's 4x25W, so you've got two 25W woofers.

The cabinet is on page 3. If the end caps come off easily, you can get a ratchet in there and tighten up some screws. I'd fit one in the top of the slot first, to define the level of the soundbar, then put an additional screw at the bottom of the slot, for rigidity. I would try to find studs for this in the wall. Maybe by some miracle the holes are on standard stud spacing?

I think you'd need a wee bit more power than that to cause problems. Like my buddy at work, who invited a few of us over to see his home-built *stereo*

Paul