Does a cooker have to have to be wired to an isolation switch, or can it
just be fed straight from the CU? I have to replace one of those old and
nasty 6"x4" horrible looking things - obviously will change it for a neater
one, but would prefer none at all.
You can use a normal 45 amp double pole switch if you like, but if you don't
have local isolation near to the cooker, then you're running the risk of
electrocution when it comes to maintenance time or emergency switch off if
one of knob controls goes faulty. A 45 amp double pole switch fits inside a
32mm deep single back box, so doesn't take up a hell of a lot room on the
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