Old cooker switch neon light is on

[Graham.]

Ah! A ring on my H O B!!!

[LizzyArt]

The ring on my job was on when I turned the switch for the cooker on. There was a large spark and it it tripped the switch. A ring on the job was blown and I replaced it. When I turned the fuse back on the neon light on the cooker switch is on all the time. Do I need to replace that switch now or is there something more that needs to be investigated by a electrician?

[Brian Gaff]

Well get yourself onto the usenet group on a sensible system not Home Owners Club for a start. My guess is that something is connecting the other side of the switch to an earth or neutral. It needs to be investigated. Brian

[Roger Hayter]

If all the ccoker controls work normally I'd assume it is just the switch contacts welded together by arcing, and just replace the main switch. The switch on the cooker probably came to no harm as it was not opened or closed during the fault current.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

If a proper cooker switch properly installed, it will be on its own radial circuit. Not a ring. So yes, get a competent electrician in.

[Andy Burns]

I assume "ring" as in hob element?

[Brian Gaff]

Oh you just caught on to the one key out when typing syndrome then? Brian

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Ah - right. You do have to assume much with these homeownersclub posts. ;-)

[Roger Hayter]

But first of all try operating the switch rapidly on and off a dozen or two times in case the contacts free themselves.

[tabbypurr]

1. We need clearer info.
2. Most people here block the website you're using. Go to google groups, this is uk.d-i-y.
3. A multimeter is the best tool to find your fault, and you'll need to read the basics of how to use them. Do the latter first, they die if connected wrong.
4. As someone said, waggling your various switches might work, but that doesn't mean the result will be reliable or necessarily safe.

NT

[Roger Hayter]

As far as detecting the fault is concerned I think the neon is already doing the only task a multimeter would be needed for. However, I do agree that if the switch isn't replaced and the neon goes out with switch manipulation then it would be good idea to check that both the live and the neutral sides of the isolatng switch are opening.

[ARW]

Would you still trust a switch to work correctly if that worked?

However I suspect that is a part of your diagnostics with the suggestion of swapping the switch later if it worked.

[tabbypurr]

not even close

NT

[Roger Hayter]

Yes, It works with relay contacts, anyway, I've had years of useful life out them. But, as per other post, I suppose one should check that

*both* switch poles are open.

I really don't think any other diagnostics are necessary, as long as all the cooker controls work as expectd. I don't suppose any of them are two pole switches.

[ARW]

Well knock about and tell us what is wrong.

I have a fire to watch and a gf to shag.

[tabbypurr]

We don't know do we. A meter is needed to find out. Neon staying on when cooker off typically means a lost neutral. If a switch is welded, unsticking it leaves a high R contact carrying a fair bit of current - I'd prefer to file the contacts than leave it as is.

NT

[Roger Hayter]

cooker off typically means a lost neutral. If a switch is welded, unsticking it leaves a high R contact carrying a fair bit of current - I'd prefer to file the contacts than leave it as is.

If the cooker works the neutral is intact. I don't think you can easily file the contacts in a commercial cooker isolation switch - if you don't like burnt contacts a new one is in order.

[tabbypurr]

yes

Maybe, but the account is too vague to reliably conclude that imho. Fwiw. Ymmv. Yfmv too.

NT