Cooker potentiometer shaft broken in two - could it be repaired?

I have a hob where one of the control potentiometers has a shaft which is, unfortunately, broken flush with the surface, as at

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Do you reckon that the shaft could be repaired? I have the other bit of it but I very much doubt that I could get a bond which was strong enough.

Anyone tried something like this and found a way to bond the two parts of the broken shaft back together?

Reply to
James Harris
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Double ended screw of a suitable size?

Example (but not necessarily of the correct size)

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Or just drill a hole in both spindle parts and insert a suitable bit of metal rod into the hole s to strengthen the glued parts

Ideally just dismantle and obtain a spare.

Reply to
alan_m

That looks like the type of repair dentists do very successfully all the time. You need a couple of very, very fine dowels and a great deal of precision.

Reply to
GB

I have done similar with a small drill, a paper clip to get a couple of dowels and araldite. Its not easy to get a perfect fit.

Reply to
dennis

You missed your vocation as a dentist! :)

Reply to
GB

If you're feeling not too ham-fisted then you should be able to drill and tap a hole down the two halves and fix them together. If you have a friend with a lathe then it would make it a fairly (simple) job.

Reply to
Chris Green

I'd try Araldite, the stuff that sets in 5 mins as you will need to hold the bit in position. Leave for 24 hours. Worth a go.

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

Or drill it oversize, and use bit of rod or screw as a dowel, and fill the oversize bit of the hole with epoxy. Align carefully and let cure.

Done that -- though on a part where excess could ooze and be trimmed. Might be tricky here if it can't be disassembled.

OTOH, if its really a potentiometer, and not some switch: pots tend to be very standard things...

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

Looks like a simple 'Simmerstat', so just use a new one. I've kept a few over the years but had to replace only one - might be because all mine are old ones and have metal shafts.

Reply to
PeterC

drill, headless screw, car body filler might hold up a while.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

James Harris wrote in news:oc8f29$u9q$1@dont- email.me:

Likely that any adhesive will jam it up. It really needs the component replacing - I think you are wasting time trying to repair it.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

Unless you can get a sleeve in then I doubt you could do much. Is it that hard to gain access and change the control? Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Understood, though the shaft is very small at just 4.5mm between the flat and the other side.

The trouble is that the control needs a fair bit of rotational force to operate it so a single rod would not help much - except insofar as it would increase the glued area.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find one for sale. Here's the control:

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Reply to
James Harris

Turns out it is a switch. Have dismantled it and here's the broken bit:

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Reply to
James Harris

Unfortunately, the surfaces don't mate completely square. See

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As you can see, there's a bit of a bend in it. I /might/ be able to cut both bits square and/or brace it to keep it straight while the glue sets but I would guess there would still be a bit of a gap. Would you think that Araldite would fill a small gap and set hard enough?

Reply to
James Harris

well if that is what it is, you have obviously got it out, and getting spares should be easy.

As I discovered with neighbour's cooker. Getting the thing out is the hardest problem usually. Unless of course replacemnt parts are no longer available.

Which reminds me, his cooker is so old it has a synchronous motor timer/clock for the oven and the motor don't go round anymore - spares unobtainable. Anyone fixed such beasts?

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I should imagine drill, pin and araldite would quite successful on that. Someone else will be along to suggest 3D printing a new one in a moment ...

Reply to
Andy Burns

Getting access is easy. Identifying the part is easy. But I couldn't find a retail replacement. Here's the energy regulator:

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Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find a replacement either from that label or via the hob's model number. There are spare parts for the hob but only external ones like knobs, plates and fixings.

The broken bit of the switch is a custom part:

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So it looks like I'll have to try to repair the shaft.

Reply to
James Harris

I wish! Unless there are generic replacements out there it looks as though no replacement is available. The part has a label:

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but I couldn't find a replacement based either on that or on the hob model.

Reply to
James Harris

DerbyBorn wrote in news:XnsA75163F9EB450TrainJPlantntlworldc@81.171.92.222:

What is the Brand Name of the cooker? I thought there was an obligation on them to maintain a supply of service parts for several years.

Keep persevereing - someone will come up with a part or equivilant. I think the torque to overcome the detents will lead to a repair failing.

Reply to
DerbyBorn

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