He /has/ got it! My hob isn't listed on the espares web site at all but I just went through a chat session with them and they said that the switch was compatible.
I hope their chat person is right. I'm not sure I would want a part with different internal connections. Could cause a nice big bang!
Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have Sherlock powers!
It's definitely not the most salubrious hob! But it is the one which is broken. Maybe I won't admit it after all. ;-)
As you know, I have a replacement option now. But when you say it's a switch that's true - but it's one with a complex pattern of cam lobes! Maybe such switches all have the same lobe pattern. I don't know.
Currys. Their spares people could supply the hob's jazzy exterior bits but not these internal switches. But it doesn't matter now as a replacement's been pointed out to me.
well almost every European cooker has spares, so had to be a cheap chinky import to break like that so I looked at the cheapest hob from the crappiest white goods supplier and it matched your photos exactly
Well someone found the exact spare at £13.49 or summat.
My concern with any repair is that the plastic the part is made of looks to be some cheese-like material which appears to be keen to become loose sawdust.
They cannot be seen to be supplying parts to non-expert people in case they injure themselves.Parts are classsified as "User serviceable" or not Things like hobs get all sorts of brand names stuck on them from time to time - same with kettles, toasters, etc. Some are a short run to use up stocks.
(I think the continuous turning ones are still simmerstat energy regulators rather than potentiometers, unless they use electronics with a relay to switch the power. The touch sensitive ones must be electronic.)
I am sure there are good reasons related to visual physiology and the physics of subtractive colour mixing. Indeed, the effect of a random collection of different coloured waste products might even be the reason that shit *is* brown. (Sadly, it actually has more to do with degraded ozygen carrying iron containing pigments, but it would be a good inference otherwise.)
I have the idea of using a 1/4" plastic shaft (with flat) from a scrap control, of a material that looks like it's strong enough e.g. nylon rather than your Aero chocolate lookalike. Metal would be dangerous. Cut the shaft long enough to go all the way from the bottom of the switch to the inside of the knob and file the flat all the way down it. Somehow make a D-shaped hole through the entire rotor to fit the new shaft. It probably won't matter if the cams break apart.
I think there must be three elements in the hotplate, of powers 1, 2, 3 sixths of 1kW. The switch must have at least three pairs of contacts, and as the knob is turned from 0 to 6, the contacts close in the following pattern: 123
-----
0 000
1 100
2 010
3 001
4 101
5 011
6 111 Your rotor seems to have five cams and the switch 5 pairs of contacts, but 2 of them don't contribute. It would be nice to see where the wires go. Brown is probably Live and goes to the common connection of the three elements. Blue, Black and White go to the other ends. The star cam at the top of your photo is for the click stop.
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