Cooker potentiometer shaft broken in two - could it be repaired?

It's only a switch

Yes it is! I can't think how you got from the part to the hob when even spares websites don't seem to relate one to the other. You must have Sherlock powers!

It's definitely not the most salubrious hob! But it is the one which is broken. Maybe I won't admit it after all. ;-)

It's a cheap hob for short term use.

Currys referred me to Partmaster (or someone similar) but the parts supplier only keeps the external gubbins, not the hob's internals.

Still, looks like the problem is solved. :-)

As you know, I have a replacement option now. But when you say it's a switch that's true - but it's one with a complex pattern of cam lobes! Maybe such switches all have the same lobe pattern. I don't know.

Currys. Their spares people could supply the hob's jazzy exterior bits but not these internal switches. But it doesn't matter now as a replacement's been pointed out to me.

well almost every European cooker has spares, so had to be a cheap chinky import to break like that so I looked at the cheapest hob from the crappiest white goods supplier and it matched your photos exactly

Well someone found the exact spare at £13.49 or summat.

My concern with any repair is that the plastic the part is made of looks to be some cheese-like material which appears to be keen to become loose sawdust.

Well now you know where all the recycled plastic waste we export to China ends up. When we could have burnt it for power in incinerators instead.

It's strange how high entropy mixtures always tend towards the color s*it brown.

They cannot be seen to be supplying parts to non-expert people in case they injure themselves.Parts are classsified as "User serviceable" or not Things like hobs get all sorts of brand names stuck on them from time to time - same with kettles, toasters, etc. Some are a short run to use up stocks.

Didn't it feel like a switch when you turned it?

(I think the continuous turning ones are still simmerstat energy regulators rather than potentiometers, unless they use electronics with a relay to switch the power. The touch sensitive ones must be electronic.)

But his photo showed a cam arrangement and about 5 terminals.

That part will cost £17. For £25, you can get a refurbished hob of the same model, including delivery. :)

I am sure there are good reasons related to visual physiology and the physics of subtractive colour mixing. Indeed, the effect of a random collection of different coloured waste products might even be the reason that s*it *is* brown. (Sadly, it actually has more to do with degraded ozygen carrying iron containing pigments, but it would be a good inference otherwise.)

Much as I like repairs, there is a saying for your pot. "It's f***ed"

Buy a new one and stop messing about.

Do you have a link?

Item 282291741000

But I just checked the delivery terms - not free at all. Sorry.

As this is a DIY group, that's not allowed!

I have the idea of using a 1/4" plastic shaft (with flat) from a scrap control, of a material that looks like it's strong enough e.g. nylon rather than your Aero chocolate lookalike. Metal would be dangerous. Cut the shaft long enough to go all the way from the bottom of the switch to the inside of the knob and file the flat all the way down it. Somehow make a D-shaped hole through the entire rotor to fit the new shaft. It probably won't matter if the cams break apart.

I think there must be three elements in the hotplate, of powers 1, 2, 3 sixths of 1kW. The switch must have at least three pairs of contacts, and as the knob is turned from 0 to 6, the contacts close in the following pattern: 123

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ISTR (from my childhood) this *does* apply to Plasticine.