Stuck Rotor on Tapered Shaft

I'm trying to remove the rotor (field coil) on my little UST GG2300 single phase generator. It won't come off. The long screw that holds it on was over-tight and it took some care to remove it without breaking it. Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove a stuck rotor? I've tried tapping, pulling and even some whacking but I'm afraid if I hit it any harder I'm gonna bend the crankshaft. I tried using a puller on the bearing at the end of the rotor, pushing against the screw (reinserted) but I'm afraid the bearing might come off before the rotor lets go. I've removed several rotors on tapered shafts before. Some were stuck buy they always came off eventually.

Reply to
Ulysses
Loading thread data ...

If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

holds it on was

Put the puller back on and put pressure on it with the puller. At the same time whack the rotor and/or the puller bolt.

Hank

Reply to
Hustlin' Hank

Any way to get a "pickle fork" type of wedge between a step on the shaft and the rotor? How about applying some of the magic Kroil and letting it work its way in for a day or two?

Reply to
Pete C.

On another project here - after letting the sucker soak in solvent - you might try heating the part that needs removing (like with a propane torch). The theory is that the metal will expand...

Reply to
HeyBub

Yep, put the whole thing in the freezer overnight, then heat up the (sacrificial) bearing quickly with a torch and whack the shaft.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Would you describe this thing you are calling a "rotor" or post a link to a picture of one? I might know what you mean, but your use of words is different than mine.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Kroil? That one is new to me. I managed to get some WD40 in there, have tension on it with a 3-jaw puller pulling against the screw, left it like that all night tilted toward the trouble area, tried whacking it with the tension from the puller...

I really can't pry behind this particular rotor due to the way the case is designed. I did try though.

Reply to
Ulysses

I'm afraid my freezer isn't quite big enough for a generator, even if it is a rather small one ;-) Maybe I'll just wait til winter.

I thought about using a torch but I think I'll have to make a hole in the case in order to get the flame in there. I also wanted to see how the impeller (cooling fan) was attached so I didn't want to destroy it if I could help it. Might have to though.

Reply to
Ulysses

Kroil - get it from Kano Labs, the manufacturer. You can order it online, and I recommend getting a gallon. It's really really good stuff.

Reply to
Pete C.

Rotor - The spinning guts in the middle of a generator, that spins inside the stator.

Reply to
Pete C.

Yea. Sometimes called an armature but I think that generally refers to the spinning part of a motor.

I went over to SmokStak.com and here's what I found: One slick trick is to tap the end of the rotor so it accepts a screw (3/8" would be about right on mine). Insert a steel rod just slightly smaller than the hole in the middle of the rotor. Insert the screw and tighten until the rotor pops off! Turns out my rotor is already threaded on the end, apparently just for this purpose! It looked like it was 3/8 24 but my tap won't go in easily so it must be metric. Now it's a matter of finding a screw that fits.

Another trick is to attach a zerc fitting to the end of the rotor and basically turn it into a hydraulic cylinder. From what I read it may take some time but eventually the pressure from a grease gun will force the rotor off the shaft. This trick is extra slick ;-)

Reply to
Ulysses

formatting link

Reply to
RLM

On Fri, 26 Jun 2009 08:35:47 -0700, against all advice, something compelled "Ulysses" , to say:

Have you tried using WD-40?

Reply to
Steve Daniels

Keep in mind that most solvents (incl. wd-40) are flamable (for a time)).

I have hung 'em from a tree overnight: cold night, warm sun in morning, gravity helps ...

Reply to
RickMerrill

I've read the grease trick for blind pocketed bushings where you fill the pocket with grease and then tap in a rod that matches the bushing bore, forcing the bushing forward.

Reply to
Pete C.

I think that's called "armature", but I could as easily be mistaken. Hey, I've never removed one of those, so I'm not going to be any help.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.