Stuck Rotor on Tapered Shaft

If it's jammed, force it. If it breaks, it needed to be replaced anyway. -----

- gpsman

holds it on was

Put the puller back on and put pressure on it with the puller. At the same time whack the rotor and/or the puller bolt.

Hank

Any way to get a "pickle fork" type of wedge between a step on the shaft and the rotor? How about applying some of the magic Kroil and letting it work its way in for a day or two?

On another project here - after letting the sucker soak in solvent - you might try heating the part that needs removing (like with a propane torch). The theory is that the metal will expand...

Yep, put the whole thing in the freezer overnight, then heat up the (sacrificial) bearing quickly with a torch and whack the shaft.

Jon

Would you describe this thing you are calling a "rotor" or post a link to a picture of one? I might know what you mean, but your use of words is different than mine.

Kroil? That one is new to me. I managed to get some WD40 in there, have tension on it with a 3-jaw puller pulling against the screw, left it like that all night tilted toward the trouble area, tried whacking it with the tension from the puller...

I really can't pry behind this particular rotor due to the way the case is designed. I did try though.

I'm afraid my freezer isn't quite big enough for a generator, even if it is a rather small one ;-) Maybe I'll just wait til winter.

I thought about using a torch but I think I'll have to make a hole in the case in order to get the flame in there. I also wanted to see how the impeller (cooling fan) was attached so I didn't want to destroy it if I could help it. Might have to though.

Kroil - get it from Kano Labs, the manufacturer. You can order it online, and I recommend getting a gallon. It's really really good stuff.

Rotor - The spinning guts in the middle of a generator, that spins inside the stator.

Yea. Sometimes called an armature but I think that generally refers to the spinning part of a motor.

I went over to SmokStak.com and here's what I found: One slick trick is to tap the end of the rotor so it accepts a screw (3/8" would be about right on mine). Insert a steel rod just slightly smaller than the hole in the middle of the rotor. Insert the screw and tighten until the rotor pops off! Turns out my rotor is already threaded on the end, apparently just for this purpose! It looked like it was 3/8 24 but my tap won't go in easily so it must be metric. Now it's a matter of finding a screw that fits.

Another trick is to attach a zerc fitting to the end of the rotor and basically turn it into a hydraulic cylinder. From what I read it may take some time but eventually the pressure from a grease gun will force the rotor off the shaft. This trick is extra slick ;-)

On Fri, 26 Jun 2009 08:35:47 -0700, against all advice, something compelled "Ulysses" , to say:

Have you tried using WD-40?

Keep in mind that most solvents (incl. wd-40) are flamable (for a time)).

I have hung 'em from a tree overnight: cold night, warm sun in morning, gravity helps ...

I've read the grease trick for blind pocketed bushings where you fill the pocket with grease and then tap in a rod that matches the bushing bore, forcing the bushing forward.

I think that's called "armature", but I could as easily be mistaken. Hey, I've never removed one of those, so I'm not going to be any help.