I would like to run some flex from a conduit box to a PIR lantern. I
was going to use flex for the last few inches rather than T&E because
in theory the lantern could be moved; however in practice, once set to
point at the ground rather than my neighbours' houses, it should
remain in that position for ever. Does this mean T&E could be used?
My question is, what would I use to terminal the conduit? Surely I
would need some sort of gland to keep the rain out? I can see male and
female ends to screw onto other accessories but I can't find anything
to use with a flex outlet. Can you help?
If it's a conduit box like this:
then you need one of these:
a short (2") length of conduit,
and a gland like this:
The gland will screw directly into the female adapter.
Alternatively, you can maybe do away with the conduit box and just use
the female adapter and the gland on the end of the main conduit run.
WRT to the last point - I did exactly that for the entry for BT's wire from
Downward facing conduit, and gland/adpator solvent welded on as Dave said.
Keeps the bugs out. Looks very neat too.
I included a BESA box (round conduit box further up, just in case BT (or me)
needed to splice the cable.
Thanks. That's the bit of information I was missing: I didn't realise
the gland screwed into the female adapter, I was looking for something
that fitted directly to the box or conduit.
BTW are the boxes IP rated?
I believe not officially (as that would require testing, which can't
be done as they're sold as components).
In practical terms, there's an optional rubber lid gasket. If you use
those, they're "weatherproof" for our purposes. Also remember that
they're sold without any lids or lid screws, and these are a separate
part, ordered separately. When joining boxes or adapters to plastic
conduit outside, use plumber's PVC cement.
Cheapest source (IMHE) is Discount Electrical, who have a wider range
of bits & pieces too. I particularly like the single-side conduit
clamps, if you're running conduit in a corner. Their tees & elbows
also look neater when installed (rounded clip-on lids, not flat
screwed ones) but are probably more awkward if you're regularly
opening them up.
On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 10:42:57 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
What are the rules for this? Should there be a drain point every so
many metres? Do I need to run the conduit slightly less than
horizontal so that any condensation runs in a particular direction?
Is it just a matter of leaving a tee piece with an open end to let the
TBH, I don't think most people bother. I drill small drain holes
in lowest parts. Also, in BESA boxes (and other outdoor accessories),
I always think to myself "what's going to happen if a drip of water
runs in on the outside of this wire?" This means I usually make a
drip loop in the wire, and then position the connections nearer the
top of the enclosure, away from any drips.
This isn't much of an issue in a heated building such as a house,
but it's more significant outdoors, and in conduit which runs from
indoors to outdoors. This was brough home to me some years ago when
I worked in a building which had a length of conduit running up the
outside wall from our ground floor ceiling to an outside light (no
longer working). Every morning except in hot summer, water dripped
out of the rusted BESA box on the ceiling over my desk, which was
the condensation from the long vertical run outside.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
On Thu, 7 Jan 2010 09:49:52 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
Thanks, so it truly is a DIY solution! I wasn't sure whether there was
some special attachment to be used.
And drill a small hole in the bottom of the box to let the drips out?
What do you do if there is a vertical drop into a light switch or
socket? Use drip loops again?
I was going to use it outdoors and perhaps join T&E to flex (to a PIR)
inside a box. I'll have to make sure I put the connections at the top
like you suggest; perhaps I should even wrap them in amalgamating
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