The final pipework is supplied with the combi, at least mine was, all the bent pipes, flared ends, compression joints etc, to get your pipework pointing down the wall in the right direction. Then, it's up to you to carry on. My top tips, use a decent flux, or make sure the pipe ends AND the inside of the solder joints are cleaned well with wire wool. Also, for visible joints, if you're a perfectionist, wipe the visible solder on the joints with a slightly damp cloth, it gives a nice finish.
I shall be plumbing a combi boiler in in a few days. But I've never seen an example of the close-up-to-the-boiler pipework connections.
The only thing I've been able to guess at is that I should use Unions on the boiler outlets/inlets. And the pipework beyonf these will have to be niftily directed onwards. I'd like to make a very good job of it all so I would welcome all of your advice and even any pictures you might have. You can send as many pics as you like to ravenscrofta at yahoo.co.uk
I will also enjoy the snippy arguments that are likely to ensue.
Few dozen m of 1" hose, and a few jubilee clips. Job done.
IMO...
End-feed looks nicer than solder-ring fittings, and is almost as easy. (you need a sighted chimp, blind one probably can't manage it.)
Go to
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or
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and order some packs of end-feed pipe fittings, and a pipe-bender. Have a play with them on a spare bit of pope. You'll need some lead-free solder, flux, and a blowtorch (I would not advise a hot air gun.)
Now, once you're confident of your ability to make proper joints without messy blobs on the outside (direct heat at pipe and fitting junction, and feed solder in 180 degrees away from it. Light smear of flux on the pipe and turning it round a few times to distribute evenly is a good idea.) then proceed to make up the pipework round the boiler. You'll probably find that it's lots easier to make it up one joint at a time, not fixed to the wall, but just holding it in place, and then taking it down to do the work on a bench.
Consider if you really want to have the pipes visible. Coming out (say) 4", and putting a sheet of plasterboard/... up to hide the pipes, and allow sunken shelves might be an idea.
Also, you probably want to think about servicing. For example, it might be nice to be able to take it off the wall without draining the system down. A couple of full-bore lever valves in the pipework can make this easy. (technically, is this legal?) A shut-off valve for the gas might be a good idea too.
Make sure you get the slopes of the flue right - I'm at the moment cleaning out the inside of my boiler, and working out how to bodge the hole to a slightly steeper angle, as on a rainy east wind, water runs down inside the boiler, and out the bottom.
Manual specifies a 1' slope, and it's of course dead level.
Different makes have different ways of connecting. Though most will either: Give you a frame which holds the boiler and into which you insert pipes, the joints being compression types. or: Various stub pipes all in a row which you then joint onto with your own pipes.
Most of my pipes are beneath worktop. for the bit below the boiler, i boxed in and the front panel is removable (held on with magnetic catches) for access to connections. .
AFAICR, mine can with suitable isolation/service valves etc. to allow for this (well sort of suitable, they are crap valves, can hardly turn the ones on the heating circuit with a screwdriver, and when i last did they then leaked.....)
Mine was of the sort that brings out all the pipes to the bottom of the boiler, so it was just a case of arranging the pipe runs , and connecting up.
Use a powerful torch, with a propane/butane mix cartridge. Look for one that has a little pre-heat tube that loops through the edge of the flame - these are usually advertised as 'non flaring' or 'use at any angle' types. Self-igniting is also handy.
This is the boiler I did in my kitchen some months ago. Some of the pics are big, not for the bandwith pikeys amongst us. I may resize them soon tho'.
I'm sure there will be many people happy to pull my install to bits but hey, it works so I don't GAF! :)
Hope it helps. But remember, I am not a plumber, this is my own work (although commisioned by a corgi guy) and I can't guarantee there aren't any problems with building regs.
Available from most good professional plumbers merchants.
Go back to the site, I've added a before and after link to it. The after photo is old, all I have to do now is put up a ceiling, but I have other plumbing to do first. I used black/grey tiles, black grout.
How does that work then? I assume it ends up looking more or less like a solder-ring fitting? The bumps are compressed somewhat and the bits of pipe next to them end up gripping the pipe like an olive.
I can't see it being as mechanically strong as solderable fittings, as neat/cheap as end-feed, as easy as speedfit, or as dissasembleable as compression joints or solderable fittings.
I suppose the benefits are (assuming the 12V gun is designed properly) it's going to be practically idiot proof, as long as you can hack off two ends of pipe, push them in and pull the trigger. No risk of setting fire to stuff unless you're really inventive, and smaller than push-on fittings.
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