Would this cheapo jigsaw at 9.99 pounds be OK for cutting worktops?
Thanks Bruce
No jigsaw makes a good job of cutting worktops cleanly, so a cheapo is as bas as anything else.
If its simply to remove a section for an overlapping sink, go for it. If you actually want to cut worktops to fit (without using the strip things) then you need something better. I'd jigsaw first then clean up with the side of a router tool.
=================================== If you're happy with your hand sawing skills then a pullsaw will produce a far better result than a jigsaw:
Cic.
It depends on what cutting you're doing. If just a hole for a sink or hob where the accuracy doesn't matter too much as the edge will be covered, a cheap one will do. But won't make as accurate a cut as a decent one. If. however, you're making a cut which will show, no jigsaw ever made is near accurate enough.
It's one of those tools that gets a lot of use once you own one.
Cheaper than a tenner from your local store? Is it worth the petrol finding out that they're out of stock?
I just need to cut holes for a sink and a hob. Maybe a cheapo router would do. Incidentally, are there any suitable hand tools which could be used for such a job? I suspect a bog-standard hand saw could be used for cutting the overlapping sink hole once you made a bit of elbow room.... Bruce
You could drill some holes and use a plasterboard saw to get started. The straight bits are easy with a handsaw.
"Uses bayonet fitting jigsaw blades". This is incorrect. The model they gave me at a trade counter for that cat. number required use of an allen key so the bayonet blades I bought at the same time were NBG. Had to buy a dearer model.
Geo
indeed. the problem is getting it started. A pad saw or keyhole saw is no bad thing for that. You can even use a circular saw for straight buts starting it by pulling the guard back and letting it drift into the surface. Then finsih te coirners with a hand saw (cross cut type)
But jigsaw is probably best..cut undersize and trim back using a surform or coarse grit rasp or sanding block.
Routers are great,. but they are expensive, dangerous and make a shit load of dust and noise.
No.
Next question.
No.
Next question.
For making holes for eg sink and hob, it can be done - with care. Our seriously shit one coped. Had a bit of a tendancy to cut at an angle rather than vertical after going round corners, but with care that could be coped with. With the sink or whatever you've got a little bit of overlap to allow for errors.
For joining worktops together, forget it.
cheers, clive
Thanks, NP. I just need to cut out 1 hole each for 2 worktops -- one for the sink and one for the hob. So maybe a cheapo jigsaw is OK.
PS: Do I need to worry too much about "scribing" the worktop? Or can any small gaps be fixed at a later stage when tiling up to the worktop?
Bruce
Hire a router!
Get some MDF / Ply offcuts, use these to form the template for the router (with collar) and waz through with the router.
I tried, seriously, with a jigsaw on 40mm chipboard worktop; The blade didn't even cut straight through the board (i.e. the blade bent), and was a proper worktop blade, too.
Router ate through it, perfect cut, and with the templates, ~1mm perfect squares. I'd do it that way every time now.
I bought a cheap but powerful jigsaw from Wickes. With a decent size coarse blade, a steady hand and a bit of patience it can be done. I used it to cut a sink hole and oven hole for my own and son in laws kitchen. At the end of the day the sink/hob will hide any irregularities. As for any other job forget it as the men have said .
*small* gaps can be, but it's easier to hack lumps off a plastered wall than cut worktop.
Shove worktop hard up against wall and fill in gaps with one of:
(a) caustic soda (b) car body filler (c) expanding foam
Text A B or C to 8142£638)225+36~193
Owain
You obviously don't have a Makita jigsaw :-) They eat 40mm worktops for breakfast.
On reflection, a keyhole saw + hand saw might be a better choice. Rather than buying a power tool I might not use again. There is also less chance of me making a wrong cut and ruining the job.
Bruce
================================== Padsaw / keyhole saw blades are a bit soft and bendy and so not very practical for this kind of long cut. Since you've clarified the kind of cutting you have to do I would suggest that your original choice of a cheap jigsaw is probably the best solution. The finish for cut-outs isn't critical and can easily be tidied up if necessary. Even a cheap jigsaw can be controlled provided that you don't try to force the cut.
If you do acquire and use a jigsaw you'll also gain some personal experience and the one you proposed won't cost much more than a padsaw and handsaw if you have to buy them for this job.
Cic.
Thanks, Cic. So a keyhole saw won't be able to handle a 40mm thick worktop...back to the original plan, then!
Bruce
Thanks, Cic. So a keyhole saw won't be able to handle a 40mm thick worktop...back to the original plan, then!
Bruce
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