Cheap, Nasty Chinese Floodlights

I bought rather a lot of 100W LED lights from Ebay.
Rated as IP65 and very effective for a few weeks.
The body is aluminum, with a glass front held on with a light steel "clamp", this is fixed by four corner screws and as up to 15cm of the clamping plate is not under direct pressure from the mounting screws, water gets in and fogs the glass. The LED plate gives up after a month or so.
Silicone and Hammerite help, but I notice the fog has returned on a few, as well as rust on the steel plate [foil might be a better description].
I,m considering melting glue sticks in a metal bowl and immersing the edges of the lights so that the clamping plate and a small overlap up the glass are immersed. Does this sound feasible? I'm hoping that the molten glue will be a better water repellent than the liberal dollops of Hammerite I have been using. I am also hoping it inhibits rust more readily.
Any thoughts?
AB
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On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 21:20:42 +0000, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

A line of Sugru along each edge?
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Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Instead of cheap chinese ones, buy nice Brackenheath ones.
<https://www.screwfix.com/c/c/cat840908?brand=brackenheath
Nice silicone gasket and conformally coated, with PSU on-board the LED 'chip', big heavy heatsink, and the power consumption tallies with what it says on the box, rather than being 50% at best, so the 50W probably as bright as your supposed 100W.
The only negative is if you need to extend the cable without an external junction box, it's fiddly and warranty voiding.
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The PIR ones appear to have the usual deficiency. You can't angle the lamp downwards sufficiently so as not to blind the people opposite, without restricting the range of the PIR.
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Graham.
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Graham. wrote:

Which is why I fit separate PIRs and floodlights
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wrote:

Thank you, I looked at the Screwfix units and will try a couple.
They seem impressive and the thirty Watt are at around the same price as the 100W units I have installed.
I can afford to lose a little light in two areas, If there is no major reduction I will replace all the lights with Screwfix units as they fail.
Regards
And many thanks.
AB
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Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

I fitted the 30W version, specifically this one, where the central metal ring clamps the lens and gasket to the body
<https://www.screwfix.com/p/p/5514h
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wrote:

Thanks, I saw that, the customer feedback is good, but to be honest I intend to get the more conventional thirty watt that follows below it.
It looks more like the rubbish I'm used to :-(
Regards
AB
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On 14/01/18 01:26, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Did you read only the first four reviews? If so, have a look at the four on page 2 - reliability seems poor.
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Jeff

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Jeff Layman wrote:

Mine's too young to judge.
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On Saturday, 13 January 2018 21:21:08 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

I hope you left the bottom edge unsealed. If not that would explain it.
NT
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On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 14:48:45 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Doh!!
Damn & Blast, I didn't leave any form of vent, In fact I liberally slopped Hammerite over every surface, nook and cranny, glass excluded of course.
I really should have thought that one through!
Thanks.
AB

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On Sunday, 14 January 2018 00:59:16 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

And you missed hammeriting all over the glass!
I'm wondering how to fix it, pooled condensation must be able to drip out somewhere. I suppose either make a hole where it collects or re-do the sealing, otherwise your unit will be very short lived.
NT
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On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 21:20:42 +0000, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

Is that taking the frame and glass off, running a bead of silicone around the body where the glass touches and reassembling? Or just gooping silicone along the external joints?

Something semi sealed like this is not going to be water vapour proof, temperature and/or pressure changes will cause the unit to "breath", drawing water vapour in which will then condense and not be able to get out. A small (<1 mm) vent hole at the lowest interior point serves two purposes, a way for the water to get out but more importantly doesn't allow a pressure difference between inside and outside to exist so stops the unit "breathing" (as much).

Not a lot you can do about that other than completely painting (dipping?) with hammerite. No point in doing anything less and make sure that there are *no* bubbles even barely visible ones. A second coat within the timescale specified fills the bubbles in the first coat and makes quite a difference to the longevity of the coating.
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Cheers
Dave.
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On Sat, 13 Jan 2018 23:58:34 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Liquorice"

It was, yes, the full works.

I failed to do this! This will be an easy upgrade though hopefully. A small hole and maybe a bit of WD40 spray tubing siliconed in to act as a breather.

I suspect that my approach of dolloping on vast quantities wasn't the best action then, mind you I should have known anyway!!
I will inspect and vent those that have no rust showing, but I expect the proper way to repaint would be to remove what is already on and go down to metal first. Not a worthwhile pastime!
I will paint the remaining new ones properly and vent them. Any further failiures and I hope to replace them with Screwfix units.
Many thanks for the advice.
Regards
AB
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On Sunday, 14 January 2018 01:11:34 UTC, Archibald Tarquin Blenkinsopp wrote:

I can't think of any use for a bit of tube, just make a hole
NT
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On Sun, 14 Jan 2018 00:45:27 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

You are probably right. I just had visions of the thing trying to pull a vacuum when there was a dirty great drop of water nestling on the hole.
Again a small bit of actual thought and it's bye bye to the breather tube :-)
Once again, many thanks.
AB
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Where did you get 100w LEDs from? That would be an extremely bright floodlight. Are you lighting a car park?
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*It was all so different before everything changed.

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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CPC sell them. I used their 50w ones to light our village hall car park. Mind you, I put a piece of lighting gel under the glass front to tone the "cool white" down a bit.
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from KT24 in Surrey, England

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I assume you have omitted the word "equivalent"? An actual 100W LED is going to be *very* bright!
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