Car steel sunroof.

The steel sunroof on the old Rover is pretty rotten and I've got a good secondhand replacement. The rest of the bodywork is pretty good considering it's 25 years old and has lived outside all its life. The sunroof is a known problem, not available new and fetch high prices secondhand.

It consists basically of a u section perimeter frame that the outer skin is welded to. There is a rubber seal clamped to the frame by steel strips on the other side of the seal, fixed to the frame by self tappers. On the old one these steel strips are rotten too, as is the frame. From the outside only a couple of paint blisters show.

Now clamping two bits of steel together with self tappers direct into steel is a recipe for corrosion if moisture is present - as there will be here. The seal is only partially effective and a tray underneath the roof carries any water that gets past it to drains - one in each corner of the car.

So I'm wondering about fitting plastic bushes to take the fixing screws. The frame they screw into has no rear access, so it has to be something like a self tapper. Snag is the self tappers are tiny. Perhaps only 3mm threads. And quite short - there isn't much depth to the frame. You can get this sort of bush for other things around the car - like say numberplate fixings where the plate is fixed direct to the bodywork. But all the ones I can find are for much larger screws. Any suggestions?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
Loading thread data ...

substitute stainless self tappers and s/steel strips?

JimK

Reply to
JimK

I have had old Rovers, but never one with a sun roof, so I am having difficulty visualising the construction you are describing.

From what you have written about it, I suspect that the problems are going to come about from water ingress.

When aircraft are put together a layer, called an interfey (sp OK) is painted on for this very purpose. I think your solution might lay in this area.

The car the wife drives developed a leak from somewhere near the top of the drivers door and the local ex Rover men would not look at it, but did show me how everything came apart.

I got a sealant that I had liberated from my job and painted that on and it cured the leak. Two coats in as many minutes.

The sealant, in another form (colour the only difference) used to be used as an interfay. It is a pourable liquid, something about the consistency of liquid gloss paint, so it should stay where it is put while to put things back together. It dries very quickly when exposed to the air and it smells a lot until it goes off. The use of copious amounts of this might be your answer. Brush it into the self tapper holes, by using a brush that you can pass in and out, leaving a reside behind etc and generally make sure that if it can't be seen.

The product I have is PRC 1005 L. It is made by Products Research & Chemicals, but I very much doubt that you will find it outside of the aerospace industry.

Find your local sealant company and ask them if they can source something similar. I did that with ours last year, when I wanted an equivalent to Dow Corning's RTV 731, or 732, but in black. They knew exactly what I was after and provide me with a cheaper copy.

HTH

Dave

Reply to
Dave

Sadly the strips are a pressing with a half round section to make them more rigid, and to hold the outside edge of the seal in place. Way beyond my skills to make.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I can't quite visualise the setup - but do you actually *need* the screws? I'm wondering whether you could find a suitable adhesive to glue the strip on - maybe using a few of the screws temporarily while the glue cures, and then removing them and filling the holes.

If not, you could use stainless steel screws, as others have suggested. Even if you can't make stainless strips, having stainless screws would be one less thing to rust. I also wondered about replacing the screws with pop rivets - but then you may get galvanic reaction from two different metals!

Reply to
Roger Mills

sections of appropriate diameter split stainless tube? (angle grinder!!!! :>)

JimK

Reply to
JimK

Many, many, many years ago (like around the late 1940s or early 50s we we had a problem with the leaking sliding roof of a 1934 Lanchester. (Anybody remember them? last time I saw a Lanchester was a 1937/8 in Sri Lanka, in 2005!) Back when; rather than debate how to repair it we covered it over and dispensed with it, to never open ever again. In that case it was fairly easy choice because we needed to recover the whole roof with some leatherette fabric. We also had some wood rot in one of the rounded rear corners, we hand shaped a replacement for that. Must say that polished up it looked pretty natty and it never leaked again! Lost track of that vehicle in 1956 when emigrating! An amusing angle to this story was that had gone all over Liverpool (four or five places!) looking for the less than four square feet of 'flannelet fabric' to cover the inside of the now unfinished 'hole' in the ceiling.No luck at all until, at one place, they said "No flannelet. But tell you what, we do have some old car headliner from before the war, that might do!". It did and it was also the right colour (but newer!). So suggestion; just fill it in? At that age shouldn't affect the value or utility of the vehicle at all? Best of luck with your project. Also BTW could you epoxy the replacement in place????

Reply to
terry

Sadly again not. On the flat side as it were the side ones are hockey stick shaped. The front one curved.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Filling in a steel sunroof would be even more work. Besides, I like it. I'll have it open on quite cold days once the heater has come up to temp.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Might be possible - but there are guides at the front which raise the roof as it reaches the closed position.

You can get 'galvanic' corrosion between the same materials - although it takes rather longer. Something to do with different electro-chemical value?

As supplied by the dealer when new, the rear number plate was fixed direct to the rear body panel with self tappers. After a few years the plate fell off - the holes had enlarged to the point they no longer gripped the screws. And corrosion had spread some way round the holes under the paint. My newer BMW also has the plate mounted directly to the boot lid. But there are plastic bushes to take the screws. And it's now much older than the Rover was when its plate fell off. Other things fixed to the body on the Rover use plastic bushes. The stainless 'kick' plates on the sills, for example. No corrosion there - despite getting lots of moisture etc being on the outer side of the door seals.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

seems a pic or two would be worth a thousand posts? :>)

Reply to
JimK

================================================

Moss Plastics make a range of nylon rivets ('push rivets'), one of which you might be able to adapt for the purpose. Skiffy also make nylon screw inserts but they may be too big for your purpose. Moss will sell samples - used to be called 'hand-full' so small quantities are available.

formatting link

Reply to
Cicero

formatting link
- I've seen those before. Indeed, the plastic clips which hold on the chrome headlight surround use the same method - since they too fit a blind housing. But even the smallest on that list are rather larger than the small self tappers used, and I doubt would clamp the rubber as tight. I'm not sure whether the much larger head would cause clearance issues with the runners. But I'll check. Maybe a combination of those and a decent glue would do what I want.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

formatting link

================================================

You might be able to use the screws from the screw type since they can only be 2 / 3mm going into a 5mm body. It would depend on how much grip they would have when used on their own.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

Proper pop rivets are made from monel metal and cadmium plated.The monel metal is used so as not affect the aircraft compass and the cadmium plating really does work. I had a rover 3500 (2000 body shape, prior to this it was known as a 3.5 with a different body) and when I replaced the exhaust I used cadmium plated nuts and bolts in it. The next time I had to replace it, it was as if I had put the nuts and bolts in just the week before.

Dave

Reply to
Dave

Indeed. I would be looking at rubbing strakes for boats - usually stainless, or at least a salt-water-resistant alloy.

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.