I have two large unused water-tanks in my attic which I want to get rid of. They are too large to get through the present attic door - they were presumably installed when there was a different setup.
In any case, I need to cut them into two or more pieces, and wondered what the best way to do this is?
Any advice or suggestions gratefully received.
A small angle grinder with a metal cutting disk is the easiest way, but remember to wear ear protection and a dust mask.
That will do it, and remember keep away from anything too flamable since it will create more than a few sparks.
(a reciprocating saw with hacksaw blade will also be quite quick)
Beg, borrow, rent or even buy a Sabre Saw like this:
Jigsaw with appropriate blade
Rick
On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 09:46:23 -0000, "Vortex" strung together this:
Yep, sabre saw would be the best option in a confined space such as a loft. You could use a grinder but I'd feel much more safe with a sabre saw.
To save fatigue from too much sawing, try a cutting charge of RDX :-)
Been there, done that, got the spark holes in the T-shirt.
Choose a day when the sun isn't shining. Don't do it alone. If you are using an angle grinder, have a large supply of spare disks. Use eye and *ear* protection. A 9" grinder is more unwieldy, but you will go through the disks less quickly.
A lot depends upon the working environment. If it is an old and dusty attic with no floor boards I'd use a saw. The speed with which a fire can develop from angle grinder sparks on old dust impregnated fibreglass insulation is frightening. With goggles and ear defenders on and clutching an angle grinder trying to escape by balancing on rafters while your nether regions are roasting can be an interesting exercise.
If you must use an angle grinder make sure you have laid out a water hose to the attic, connected it and have someone to hand to turn the water on instantly. Do not rely upon a dry powder fire extinguisher
- it will merely knock the flames back for a few seconds while scattering burning debris around the place.
This task has become something of a speciality as most of the iron tanks in the terrace where I live have expired in the last 10 years, and muggins gained a reputation for doing them without tearing the building apart.
The sabre saw is very noisy and you will be surprised at how many baldes it will break and how quickly they can be come blunt. (keep the speed down and use spray grease).
In practice I think you'll find that the sabre saw works really well on the single thickness parts but can be quite a challenge on the corners. If you have 360 degree access to the outside then I think you'll find the job much easier then when I try to get them out of the cupboard that was built around the tank afterwards.
The angle grinder will help you get a start for the sabre saw and may be easier in places. Take care not to ignite the house.
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 23:58:05 +0000, Ed Sirett strung together this:
If the angle grinder is used then go for the thin stainless steel cutting blades, they're a lot easier for cutting in these circumstances.
I know it's been suggested a couple of times but I really wouldn't use an angle grinder inside a loft. That's a recipe for burning the house down. Best tool for cutting up old tanks safely is a Sawzall. Have a look on Google to see the type of thing I mean. Use a fine toothed blade, slow speed, lots of pressure and keep the cut lubricated with WD40 or oil. High speed will burn the blades out much quicker.
Not the sort of thing you want to be buying for a one off job but if you can find one for hire it shouldn't cost too much. Of course you could probably get it done with a hacksaw if you don't mind a bit of hard work. You can only cut down a few inches at a time but if you keep bending the tabs out to the side and slcing them off you can cut the whole tank to pieces eventually. Chances are you won't need to cut too much off before it'll fit through the hatch.
I think everyone is missing something here. You've all given great advice about the fire risk of cutting metal with an angle grinder, but the tank is open topped and a small angle grinder placed inside the empty tank will shoot sparks into the tank, and not all the around the outside on to the loft floor.
It's also a lot easier to follow the cut when the tank is cut from inside out.
Not shooting you all down in flames here (pardon the pun), but there are safe ways to use tools if you think about the situation first. Casualty Departments all over the country are full of people who didn't think for five minutes before starting a job.
I'm sure all your advice is well heeded, but the sparks from the blade of an angle grinder don't have to fly everywhere if trapped inside the tank.
Casualty
If you are happy to contain the sparks that way I'd use my plasma cutter (hire one if you don't have one) - job would literally take effortless minutes BUT I would cut from outside to inside to keeps the sparks in the tank AND have a mate handy spotting trouble if it arises.
AWEM
I once had to do this after a surveyor condemed a tank in a house I was trying to sell. My main conclusion after doing this was that there was not much wrong with the old tank! But if the purchaser wanted a plastic tank they could have one!
I probably just used a hack saw on the corners and a Stanley with a hack saw blade once the cut got to deep for the hack saw. The tanks was quite thin steel so it was not difficult to cut (as I recall)
Wonder if it's thin enough to use a nibbler? (Monodek etc) At least no danger of sparks with those, and less effort than a hacksaw on unsupported thin sheet.
Last _much_ longer and make much less 'flame'.
They're about 3mm thick and double that at the corners. Since I've never used a nibbler I can't say how it would get on but if it could cut up a tank it would be a fearsome tool in the wrong hands!
First one I did, I used a jigsaw with a hacksaw blade. It works but takes for ever and the blades are small and easy to break. The second one I used an angle grinder. It took seconds to chop the (very large) tank into eight pieces small enough to fit down the hatch. I needed to wear a full boiler suit, headscarf and a respirator. Filled the loft with iron filings and took ages to clean up. Very fast though and if you are in a hurry and can stand the utter, utter filth the best option.
Final one I did using a sabre saw fitted with a metal blade. Better than a jigssaw, less mess than an angle grinder. If I had a free choice of tools I would use an air driven reciprocating saw or possible an air chisel as used on car bodywork, but I don't have a compressor (yet).
Whatever you do, ear defenders, goggles and a mask are essential.
Ah - that thick, IIRC, about 18 gauge is the limit in steel.
They're very useful in that they cut from one side only - requiring about
1/2" clearance behind, and cause less distortion than tinsnips etc.Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
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