In the old days I would have reglazed a metal window frame in much the same way as a wooden one: scraped out all the gunge, put a smooth, thin layer of linseed oil putty all around the frame, eased the glass into place and replaced the beading but I suspect that a) that might not have been the right way and b) that's not how people do it nowadays.
Is it all done with silicon sealant today? Any useful tips would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
Linseed putty is the traditional way, it works well enough, just need to overpaint once skinned it so it lasts.
Tip? Make sure you've got secondary glazing, heat loss through metal frames is terrible.
NT
You can get butyl rubber putty these days which remains slightly flexible and will help accommodate any expansion etc of the metal frames. Screwfix etc sell it.
+1 Unless it's a listed building or in a conservation area where the great dictator demands otherwise. And even then IIRC there are special ones which try to emulate the look of putty
Yes, we've got aluminium double glazes windows here - no idea how old they are but there obviously isn't a thermal barrier, so ice cold frames and lots of condensation!
We're going to replace them with uPVC when the weather gets a bit warmer.
condensation which seeps between the frame and casement and then freezes, making it dfficult to open the window to wipe away the condensation.
And the paint blisters off the outside.
On the upside, at least my windows don't look as nice as the council tenant neighbours'
Owain
Ours are anodised, so no paint to worry about!
Heat loss is not really a problem where I am right now... but I appreciate the putty confirmation.
Thanks,
Nick
No - still done with putty...
That looks interesting since getting at the outside putty to paint it is going to be a tad tricky in this location.
Screwfix
I checked on the Screwfix website. Apparently my nearest branch is in Penzance and it's only 6,679 miles from here. So I might see if a local D-I-Y store keeps that sort of stuff.
Thanks
Nick
You are probably all desperate to find out why I want to reglaze a metal window frame, aren't you?
No?
Well, I'm going to tell you anyway. If you don't want to know, just avoid the Flanders and Swan thread below...
Oh, and thanks for the advice. Really appreciated, as always!
Nick
I've not seen it in the sheds. But you'll find it mail order on Ebay.
I've used it in wood frames with DG units. Thing is it can be painted over
- unlike silicone.
Yes - but given it's not stocked by everyone, may be cheaper than driving miles to get it.
Which is not advisable.
DG units in Timber frames should be dry mounted.
Support the glass on special rot-proof packers to leave a gap below and each side, fix the glass to the frame inner rebate with double sided butyl tape, then affix the glazing bars to the outside face of the glass with more butyl tape and pin them into the frame with stainless steel pins.
The bottom glazing bar should be a J moulding that sits on 3 mm packers allowing any water to drain away and not allow the glass to sit in a puddle of water in contact with the frame.
If they are Crittall, dont forget to replace the metal clips that stop the glass falling out !
I'll let you know. The pro installers who did the job originally didn't stop the frames rotting in short order at the bottoms, despite using your method. Or some of the panels going cloudy.
Yes.
+1
And more importantly, did they treat the bare frame with base-coat sealant or grain-sealer before installing the glass ?.
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