The door between our living room and conservatory has pretty much come
to the end of its life. Victorian, lightweight, single glazed and no
security that would keep a flea out, so time to replace it with
something different, before we do all the other jobs in that room.
Said door is paired with a fixed panel (like a pair of doors where
only one opens) and is glazed above. The opening in the brickwork is
about 5' 6 ( as it's a Victorian house, my measurements have regressed
to Imperial these days!)
I went to the local doors place and was quite taken with their base
price for a pair of 5' doors, low panel at the bottom and open for
glazing above - about £260. So I got the blokey to come and quote to
do the whole job (install, glaze etc and the panel above): £1580!
Definitely plenty of scope to do this job myself then(!) Got the same
doors online (£190) and a new frame (£80), which will be delivered at
the weekend. Quotes for double glazed panels amount to around £100
all together. Can't see any real problems in the job (famous last
So what are the questions?
1 Building regulations (i.e. a door into a s=conservatory is an
external door blah blah) notwithstanding, is it a good idea to double
glaze these doors? On the one hand all insulation is a good thing.
On the other hand, the conservatory is south facing and gets pretty
warm even on a cool day if it's sunny (Today it was 36 degrees when it
was 14 outside). My guess is it's a swings and roundabouts thing but
someone may have experience of this situation.
2 I have yet to decide whether to paint these doors or show the
hardwood. The originals are painted but it always seems sacrilege to
paint hardwood (if the grain etc looks good enough). If they are not
painted, what's the recommended treatment? The pro said they would
use a satin varnish with multiple coats before hanging - does anyone
have any recommendations?
3 I realised I have never put double glazing in a timber door (or
window) before. These are made to accept a d/g unit, but it occurred
to me that there might be a good way to do it. Searching the web
gives almost nothing except the pdf of the Wickes 'How To' sheet,
which is pretty superficial.
I was assuming spacers around the outside of the glass, then maybe
some sealant on the faces where it meets the beading, but then d/g in
uPVC frames uses gaskets. Then there's all manner o rubber strips,
sticky security tape etc etc. So what's the best approach?
4 Locks etc: I'm thinking a sash lock, hinge bolts and rack bolts or
flush bolts on the 'slave' door. The door pair are rebated, so I'll
need a rebated lock. All the nicely finished rebated locks seem to be
3-lever, which is hardly 'secure' in modern terms, while the few 5-
lever, BS-approved versions have industrial rebate kits that might
look the business in a warehouse or something but look pretty dire in
a nice french window. Has anyone solved this issue recently?
5 Seals: I've been thinking that it would be good to make sure the
final product is properly draught proofed. In fitting a new door
there is clearly an opportunity to route grooves to accept sealing
strips but these would have to be pretty low profile and most that I
have seen work to a gap of 3mm or so. I had been thinking of putting
this in along the hinge edge of the door and along the rebate but it
wouldn't feel fight to set the door up with an intentional gap to
accommodate this. Has anyone encountered / solved this one?
Any sensible opinions gratefully received as ever! (I'm not sure
there's a role for an angle grinder here)