No, 1) because we aren't talking about need but choice ... and 2) things you (/most people interested in diy mechanics) *would* generally have done on a car new to them and in those days.
And I can't remember the last time I checked the electrolyte level in a car battery or most of my motorcycle batteries for that matter. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Did you get the bonnet mascot too? :-)
Well, I've never seen another that's for sure. I did actually have a Mini Scamp (kitcar) for a bit (unfinished project) but I was never really into Minis so sold it to someone who was.
Erm no. ;-) 0-30 in 12 seconds I think I read somewhere.
Ok.
Yeah, that sounds familiar / similar.
More like some milk floats I believe (we had a Smiths 4 wheeler for a while).
'A waste of good batteries' I think. ;-)
Two things that were done to improve the saloon versions (that were far more aerodynamic than the moke) was to raise the voltage nearer
100 and go to an electronic controller (and possibly change the diff for one of a higher ratio). The former made for less losses in the power wiring and more simple wiring and smoother controlling at the same time.Under the drivers seat is a (heavy) tray about 400 x 600mm that contain 6 (from memory) large, double ended contactors. All of the battery / traction wiring has to go from the batteries (or pairs of batteries at least), in both the front and back to this controller (meaning there is a fair bit of heavy (but still lossy) wiring involved.
With a single and fixed voltage supply, you would only need two cables from the back to the controller and two more from the front. If they were the existing (large) cables they would be less lossy if the voltage doubled and the current halved.
And if I ever get round to digging it out and getting it back on the road to use (rather than sell), that is something I might do, or at least look into.
Cheers, T i m
Hehe, unfortunately not (she might have helped the aerodynamics and the view). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Holy crap. I love it.
MUST RESIST...
Yes, you put your foot on the plate on the bottom of the back-handle and hold it down against your pulling. You can't do that with a top-handle, the sort you would more typically be using in a tree.
And if you are using a chainsaw and particularly when up a tree, having someone with you is probably both a 'good idea' and is in many commercial cases, required or at least recommended (there are always exceptions of course). Not only would the worker up the tree (ideally, unless being trained etc) have their chainsaw use and maintenance and cutting up in a tree type tickets, but also aerial rescue, as would their 'groundie'. Apparently we humans don't last long when hanging upside down, especially with a large swarf of flesh cut away. ;-(
Drop-starting I think they call that.
Does anyone make a corded saw that you could consider 'properly designed' (to be used in the rain)?
Are generators not allowed there?
Cheers, T i m
Yeah, it is 'different' that's for sure. ;-)
Hehe ... I'll put you on the list, just_in_case. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
I guarantee you will get spectacularly pissed off when the chain goes suddenly blunt through careless use (typically this would be when cutting roots or inadvertantly into the ground). It ***will*** happen.
You should preemptively purchase a DREMEL (unless you have one) and one of these:
David
A box of chain saw files is much cheaper, not significantly slower and means you can give the chain a swift sharpen wherever you happen to be.
[Decides to go and chainsaw up some more logs....]
Even in tact, concious and the right way up we don't last long in a harness. Something to do with the legs not being under load and thus pushing the blood back up to the head, even "riding a bicycle" doesn't help much.
Isn't that more to do with a 'safety' harness rather than a 'working' one?
Oh.
Cheers, T i m
I agree. You have no option other than to hold the chainsaw with 2 hands thus keeping the important bits well clear of the dangerous bit.
Also... I'd suggest attempting to work/use a chainsaw "from the side" as some suggest makes control of the saw harder and and more dangerous as it risks the kickback chain brake not working because your wrist is in the wrong place and you're not shielded by the body/guard of the saw.
Not keen on the idea of using a workbench to support a log while cutting. Far too flimsy and not enough weight or wide enough base in my mind and it puts the tool even closer to the important bits (torso and head)
Also... :) Don't think there is much chance of a chain snapping on an electric chainsaw. I've had the chain jump off the bar on my petrol one when I didn't check/re-tension it between fuelling but I'd say the highest risk with an electric chainsaw would be cutting the cable, same as with a hedge trimmer.
Because they are harder or something?
Cheers, T i m
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