chain so use....newbie

Dec 26, 2014 53 Replies

My wife bought me an electric chain saw and the more I read about them the more I fear them, Still I have said to her for years every man should have one! Anyhow will there be any real issues sawing through some max 6 inch thick logs? Most of the length supported on a bench and just a 8 inch overhang to cut through. I will be cutting a tree down as well max 6 inch thick trunk about ten feet high. Do I just zip through that or do I still need to cut a wedge and then cut from opposite side? No issues no matter which direction it falls. This is first time ever owned one so treading carefully.


Good, a tool you are frightened of is less likely to bite you. It's the tool that you are complacent about that bite.

Until you have cut it down. The log also need to be securely fixed not just laid on the top of bench. Otherwise the saw will just pull it towards you, the chain/bar may bind and possibly kick.

The risk is binding, just like cutting with a normal saw. If the cut closes up onto the bar you have a problem. Though with a 6" dia trunk you could proably lean on it to open it enough to get the saw out. Properly down the wedge and cut not only controls the direction it stops the tree splitting as it starts to go. Google for details...

So locked in a B&D workbench should be ok. And I thought an angle grinder was a nasty beast!

Chain Saw Dos and Dont's lower down this page

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You have exactly the right attitude. But your respect will give you safety. Over-confident idiots have chain saw accidents.

I suppose you've reached the age where she feels that any risk to your life or knackers is relatively unimportant.

The main thing is, don't let the tip touch the work or the damn thing will tilt back and cut your face off. Hold tight with both hands and make sure you know how to stop it. Wear thick padded gear, gloves, coat, etc. Cricket box optional.

Very wise.

Bill

I think this bit is most important. ALWAYS ensure the tip is in the clear and not going to touch anything else. I also always try and stand out to the side, so should it throw up, hopefully it wont be towards me.

ss wrote

There are training videos on YouTube

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chain/bar

B&D workbench is a bit light weight IMHO, the whole lot could move. How ever this could be my fear of chainsaws kicking in...

Take angle grinder, fit one of these:

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IME a chainsaw is very forgiving compared, say, to a circular saw. Listening to the motor will tell you whether it's happy or not. The width of kerf makes kickback a rarity

From a friend who went through this, one thing he said he was not prepared for was thesnatching effect which came on suddenly when cutting some wood. I've lost touch with him now as he moved away, but I'd not heard of him losing any limbs as yet. His was a petrol one so no c ords to cut through. Brian

Yes, I foolishly as it happened stood against a trunk while a person cut a limb with an ordinary saw. as h he had not cut underneath first, the branch brok and swung on the bark, missed the stepladder and hit me on the nose, so beware, I strongly belive trees try to get their own back at every moment. Brian

The old workmate made of steel was very good for this sort of thing. Not impressed by the alloy ones. You need a person to sit on it for stability!

Brian

The system you clicked with didn't include the trailing _

...and that's why I'm booked on this...

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Don?t need no course, the basics are obvious and plenty on youtube for free if you are too stupid to work it out for yourself.

Having cut a wedge on one side, you can then cut from the other side leaving a thin blade. You then remove the saw, and either pull the tree over with a previously attached rope, or knock in a wedge to push the tree over. Either way you can control the direction of fall.

The Swiss cut a notch for a jack rather than use a wedge.

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