Saw horse for use with chain saw

Anyone got any recommendations for a saw horse to hold logs for cutting with a chain saw?

Seen a cheap one at Amazon with mixed reviews, and some more expensive ones. The cheap one seems to be designed to cut the log within the saw horse - various comments about using a piece of 2*2 to protect the chainsaw from the metal.

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I was thinking of one where the log stuck out from the end to give a clean cut, but this gives balance problems when you are cutting a log in half with

50% of the log sticking out of the end of the saw horse. So I was looking for something with a securing clamp to hold the log.
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interesting but is £80 which is a non-trivial price. Also looks remarkably similat to the Makita one
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recommendations anyone?

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David WE Roberts
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"Within the horse" I can see the cut tending to close an bind onto the bar/chain. "Out of the end" the cut will open but may split/rip before the cut is completed unless you cut the underside first.

Not sure who the amazon or makita ones work. They clamp the log but what supports it to stop it pivoting at the clamp point?

I think that some sort of trough arrangement with 2" or so cutting slots along it's length and some form of clamp to stop the log rotating would be better. Each short trough section supports each section of cut log so hopefully not allow the cut to close/open too much.

Lay log in, clamp it, then run saw down each cutting slot, lift cut logs off. Anything that means, position, clamp. cut, reposition, clamp, cut is going to be tedious.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

"Dave Liquorice" wrote: [snip]

Last time I looked saw horses varied from £12 for something that looked lethal to £80 for one that had a holder for the chainsaw that permitted one hand to hold the workpiece.

However another £40 buys a much better device with a built in circular saw and kill switch. You use these by dropping a log into a tough. Pull a handle and the circular saw chops the log. Push handle and slide log to the right, repeat.

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Reply to
Steve Firth

IME chainsaws are better for logs. Circular is ok when the material is reasonably straight and sits squarely on its supports but, since logs tend to be all over the place, the blade will tend to bind. Often you find you don't need a sawhorse with so many logs lying around. They support each other

Reply to
stuart noble

You are better just to make one up out of wood. Two "X" pieces linked with timber All these metal ones mean that at some point you will catch the chain on them and damage both. Re the balance thing, I cut bits off from each projecting end alternately. Final cut between the "X"s. Or you can modify a workmate with extra wood bits screwed on (to take the cut marks :-)

I also have a metal one with twin hold down straps. It has bits of plastic tube on it to "protect" it from the chain, But it doesn't.

I have yet to see the perfect solution.

Reply to
harry

Odd that all of the firewood pros for miles around use tractor PTO versions of the same thing then.

Right... Good luck with that.

Reply to
Steve Firth

=A380 + =A340 =3D =A3230?

Shome mishtake shurely?

Jim K

Reply to
Jim K

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> looks interesting but is £80 which is a non-trivial price.

I have seen YouTube videos of these things in use, and they look good...

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expensive for what they are though...

Maybe you can make something similar!?

Reply to
Toby

I use a workmate with two sacrificial lengths of 4x2 fixed to the top by screws up through the holes in the worktop. It doesn't hold the log but with a little practise I can cut both ends, then cut the centre down onto the

2x4.

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

How astonishing -- I was thinking about "inventing" something for myself for exactly this problem, just this very morning while digging in the mud.

My version was (is) going to be the trough solution: two bits of old plank bolted at right angles to each other on the edge, possibly using angle iron. Then I was (will be) going to cut generous notches in the trough at 9" intervals (the length that our little stove will take). This trough will sit in the quite large saw horse that I made for myself last year out of lumps of wood that were lying around.

Of course, I will have to cut a log almost to the depth of the notches, then turn it in order to go all the way through, but this is loads better than dealing with all the fiddling little problems listed in this thread.

BTW I wouldn't fancy spending 80 quid on that fancy one, and definitely not spending 16.5 quid on the cheap one!

John

Reply to
Another John

The main thing is that chainsaws are very forgiving, and will allow you to do the double cuts you describe without kickback.

Reply to
stuart noble

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> looks interesting but is £80 which is a non-trivial price.

nail one together from 2x4 and a couple of bolts.

Thats what I did. Its practically sawn in half now, but it did its job...

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

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>>> looks interesting but is £80 which is a non-trivial price.

+1
Reply to
Nick

I've never bothered with a sawhorse, too much effort in lifting a piece of cord when it can be cut in situ. The main need is to stop the log rotating and being pulled up to the saw dogs.

AJH

Reply to
news

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net...

IMHO it is very wasteful to use a chain saw for cutting logs as firewood. High cost, high maintenance and high risk. My preferred option. Use a chain saw to fell or cut timber to manageable length/weight. Then a diesel driven bench saw to cut into firewood lengths. Then an axe or maul or sledge/wedges to split. This is how I have done it for nigh on forty years. I am very fortunate in having a bench saw with 2cyl Lister driving a 36" blade. Can generally cut/split/stack a years worth of firewood in about 4 days, spread over the year. This is about 5 or 6 tons. Machine is def not elfinsafety friendly but I remember the golden rules- always use a push stick, don't allow your hands over the surface of the bench and call it a day if feeling tired. I still have all my digits and the bits that they're attached to. Have had some scary moments of course. AD is taking its course and toll but I've enough cut to warm this old place for the winter. Haven't had to pay any heating bills for many years. May be forced to rethink over the next few years. Sawbench will run for 10 hours on 1 gallon of red splosh. Change oil every 2 years or so (it doesn't use or leak any), annual grease of bearings, adjust drive belts and a thorough check. A lovely reliable homebuilt piece of machinery. Also it is quite therapeutic. A few hours of an autumn afternoon or a crisp winter morning leave me feeling quite refreshed and with some sense of achievement. My apologies, I'm getting carried away and the above is prob TOT. Sorry.

Just my 2P's worth. Nick.

Reply to
Nick

Knock one up with six lengths of 2x4 Make the ends of 2x4 crossed fairly near to the top (about 2/3 of the way up) and have a third X about a foot in from the RH end. Brace it all up with timber boards or similar and Bob's yer odd uncle. However, don't leave it lying around outside for years as it will eventually fall apart and do treat the timbers.

Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

Cutting/utilising logs has become very twee these days. In days of yore it was about economics, now it's about saving the planet. So they can make/sell these posh devices. Might even make sense with the price of gas. Still, no need to buy a posh device.

Selling logs is becoming a major industry where I live. At one time you could get free firewood for the labour of cutting up a fallen tree but not anymore.

Reply to
harry

I have a device that holds mutiple logs,strapped down (two straps). It means you can simultaneously cut up long relatively thin branches. It works wonderfully except that at some point you catch either the straps or the tubular metal frame. The two straps means that you can make a final cut between them and not be left with an awkward bit at the end.

Reply to
harry

snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net...> Anyone got any recommendations for a saw horse = to hold logs for cutting

I have both petrol and electric chainsaws. Subject to the cable, the electric one is much safer/easier/lighter to use. Not as well made as the petrol one which is a Husqvana.

Reply to
harry

Err yes when did £130 become £230? Kind of you to pre announce your mistake.

Reply to
Steve Firth

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