Greetings
Just finished pressure-washing my patio, and most of the gaps between slabs (which were moss filled) are now empty.
I understand I can mix some sand and cement and basically sweep that around, filling the gaps as I go. Is that right? If so, builders or sharp sand, and what ratio mix?
Should I then spray water over, or just wait for rain?
The gaps between slabs varies - does the gap size matter?
Thanks
JIP
I've been tempted by one of these but haven't taken the plunge yet:
Depends on how you want to do it:
Not expecially...
I agree with the fact that you must rinse the threads and nozzle on every re fill, but can't remember if I used soft or sharp sand. Will make sure I use soft next time.
Mike
To have been down the dry mix road, as you say it does not last, also there are still stains on the slabs. Bought one of the guns recently, now all I need to do is use it. The makers have a very good web site with videos showing the operation.
I had no luck with those guns. By the time I'd loaded it, unblocked it, and cleaned it afterwards, I reckon I could work faster by hand.
Sweeping allows cement to penetrate the surface as it's finer than the texture of most things. IME adding water by spray doesn't necessarily mix the ingredients, and you tend to get pockets of dry powder.
With slabs I've found no better way than damping the mix just enough to change the colour and tucking it down with a trowel. I watched a guy making an excellent job of crazy paving recently (boy, what a labour of love that is!), and it's the method he was using, so I was pleased about that.
Epoxy mortar is best Cement/sand next best Sand alone becomes populated with plant life
I read recently that lime stops mould growth, but if youre using lime you'd be better using cement, or both together. Lime's veyr easy to clean off the faces though.
NT
My natural stone patio laid and t eh gaps pointed up with 4:1 mix using builders (soft) sand (no plasticer needed) .. mixed semi dry ... troweled into joints and tamped down with a length of wood trip .. (about 10mm thick), slightly rounded edge. Excess simply brushed away with soft brush.
The problem with 'pointing guns' is that mix has to be wet, and you can get staining of the slabs.
There is also a dry 'pour-in' point mix, which sets by contact with damp ground .... but never used that.
what did you buy ... was it easipoint and using their mix ?
You can justr sweep a dry mix intot he joints till its full. a 6 to 1 mix is plenty.
It needs tamping a l;ittle or just letting it settle. Then do it again
-and again if need be.
Make the final pointing quite strong. Tamp the previous lot down by dragging a stick or some sort of edged tool along the joints.
If you want a really firm finish, apply grout in a similar manner. A 2 to 1 mix with fine sand (brick sand) will suffice.
Wet cement will stain the paving, so you have to get on your hands and knees with hands full of sawdust pdq and scrub them clean. (Not fun!)
Which means (depending on the weather) you can only do a certain amount at a time. Try a couple or three square yard sections at a time until you know how fast you can work.
The you just brush the sawdust crap off and bin it. Or put it in the compost. Rinse you skin with plenty of water when you have finished and don't use any soap on your skin fore a day or two.
Your skin will crack badly if you neglect it.
Thanks for all the replies. Lots of different ideas and thoughts. In the end I have swept a dry mix back and forth and will redo in a week or two. Does a great job of finishing off cleaning the slabs too!
I had asked if the gap size matters because whoever put the slabs down left hardly any gap between some of them, and the rest vary like crazy. I would guess the narrow gaps would be very hard to do with a wet mix or with a mortar gun?
Again many thanks
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