I've just about run out of split logs, and also logs which will yield
easily to the "grenade" splitter which has been very successful up to now.
I thought I would look up log splitters.
Hydraulic ones seem to cost from £100 upwards.
You can get non-hydraulic foot pump ones for £50-£60 but I have no idea
how effective these are.
Does anyone know of a DIY design which has an adjustable reach, a blade,
and can use an existing hydraulic jack?
I have a trolley jack and a bottle jack available.
A standard axe head may well be enough for the blade part.
On Saturday, January 24, 2015 at 12:55:54 PM UTC, David wrote:
Grenade splitters are pretty ineffective on tough logs, they try to open
several cracks simultaneously.
The ordinary axe works better if slower. Take bits off round the edge, don't
go for a radial split, especially on big logs
You might try steel wedges and sledge hammer if all else fails. I use
various cold chisels I have round the place as wedges.
On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 15:22:04 +0000, harryagain wrote:
I have two steel wedges.
Took me about four days of hammering them into a split down one side
until they stopped moving then going away for a while before the log to
Even when the two halves were separated by a wedge head width they were
still held together by strands of wood and wouldn't come apart.
I had to use a hand saw on the last bits to get the wedges out and finally
split the log.
That is some tough wood!
I agree. I split half a tonne or so a couple of months ago, and need to
do some more. I used to struggle with splitting "slices" of trees until
one of the tree surgeons whose wood I get showed me how to do it properly,
which is to split chunks off the edges, not try to split the rounds in
half. Now I can chop them up as fast as I can swing the axe.
Today is Prickle-Prickle, the 24th day of Chaos in the YOLD 3181
I don't have an attitude problem. If you have a problem with my attitude,
On Sat, 24 Jan 2015 15:01:20 +0000, Tim Lamb
Me too, not to mention the efficiency of pumping oil through pipes
compared with delivering kinetic energy into an axe head.
I gave up with logs that needed more than two or three axe swings long
ago. Easier to use the chainsaw.
In practice an engine driven ram pushing green wood through a knife
gives the more presentable product loaded into transport.
For dry interlocked grain, like elm or eucalyptus, the screw-cone like
hycrack busts them best but the product is not as presentable and it
often doesn't split them cleanly apart.
The value in a firewood log is all in the labour required to prepare
it otherwise the few hundred tonne heaped in our yard would have
disappeared long ago.
I've discovered (too late) that I should have split some of my logs when
they were green.
I don't know which wood this is (could be holly) but it as hard as a very
hard hard thing.
I can't get it to split with the grenade, which splits nearly everything
The chain saw which zips through other woods really struggles to cut it
(although it is probably due for a sharpen).
I can just about to get it to split using two steel wedges - has to do
this to get the grenade out.
So I very much doubt anything but a serious industrial log splitter will
have a change against this.
I could swing the log maul at it, but at the moment I don't have a decent
solid base to stand the logs on before I hit them.
Now looking at hiring a log splitter - £20-£30 for a day could turn out to
be money well spent.
All I have to do now is find one locally, which is not proving easy.
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 3:06:42 PM UTC, David wrote:
Holly's a very pricey wood with a fine creamy smooth hard finish. If you've
got a bit big enough to split, make something from it or sell it. But be a
ware its devilishly unstable.
In future holly should be debarked on day of cutting and dried at maximum s
peed. Anything else sees it stain heavily.
On Monday, January 26, 2015 at 3:06:42 PM UTC, David wrote:
Apparently rip cut blades are available for chainsaws, most blades are cros
s cut. I was met with a blank stare when I asked about them. (We were conve
rting an 8ft log of oak into quarter sawn planks and it was a bastard to do
on the bandsaw. Chainsaw wouldn't really look at ripping it.)
/Apparently rip cut blades are available for chainsaws, most blades are cro
ss cut. I was met with a blank stare when I asked about them. (We were conv
erting an 8ft log of oak into quarter sawn planks and it was a bastard to d
o on the bandsaw. Chainsaw wouldn't really look at ripping it.) /q
Er blades for chainsaws??
Do you mean table/circular saw blades?
On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 2:33:08 PM UTC, JimK wrote:
ross cut. I was met with a blank stare when I asked about them. (We were co
nverting an 8ft log of oak into quarter sawn planks and it was a bastard to
do on the bandsaw. Chainsaw wouldn't really look at ripping it.) /q
On Saturday, 24 January 2015 12:55:54 UTC, David wrote:
I've always favoured a log splitting maul over a grenade because each attem
pt at splitting the log is a single operation - no 'one hand holding the gr
enade while the other wields the sledge hammer'. Also it doesn't jam in pa
rtially split timber as easily as a felling axe can.
Thanks - interesting.
Google throws up a chain from Oregon designed to rip cut.
However it says:
"For use on chain-type sawmills; not recommended for hand-held use"
Further Googling offers:
"Now ignoring Ripping chain for a minute, the short answer, for the
average consumer who only uses the saw once in a while for general garden
tidying, tree pruning and a little weekend firewood, is that there is no
need to worry about whether you buy semi or full chisel chain. Indeed the
small consumer saws bought from garden centres, mail order catalogues and
such like, are as often as not fitted with Low profile 3/8" chain, which
is virtually always only available as a semi-chisel anyway, so they have
no choice! But for the more discerning saw owner I will try to shed some
light on the mysteries of chain styles and types. "
"Hardwood trees when examined under the microscope have a porous structure
these pores act as natural gaps in the fibre of the tree, making them
easier to cut through. The sorts of hardwoods you will likely encounter in
your garden include oak, beech, ash, cherry, and a couple of hardwoods
that are evergreens namely boxwood and holly. In firewood terms hardwoods
make the best logs, burn better,spark less etc. Hardwoods are best cut
with a Full chisel Chain. "
This is special purpose chain, with shallow angle cutters (typically 10
degree angle, whereas conventional chain is 25-35 degrees). Only used for
chainsaw mills, making planks etc. Gives a smooth finish to the cut timber
due to cutter angles. Ripping chain is ALWAYS semi-chisel, since cutting
with the grain along the tree trunk, effectively makes all wood fibrous
like softwood. you are never cutting across the pores (veins) so do not
get the natural breaks in fibre caused by cutting across the pores.Now if
speed of cut rather than quality of finish (fence posts, roof joists etc)
is your aim, then full chisel normal chain will do the job fine, and cut
faster. For real speed use a skip chain.....
"At The End Of The Day
In summary, for most people it matters not whether you buy full or semi
chisel chain. If you can sharpen chain with a file then full chisel is the
stuff, cuts faster in all woods. If you have a pine forest to fell you
better buy semi-chisel or if you cannot sharpen chains (it MAY stay sharp
longer). Do not buy Ripping Chain if you do not have a chainsaw mill, do
not buy square ground chain unless you are an expert with a triangular
file or have a bench grinder. Most pros use full chisel as the extra
cutting speed outweighs the (possible) faster dulling of chain (except
when felling large quantities of softwoods)."
All interesting stuff but that seems to leave me with only a semi-chisel
chain as the saw is a Bosch electric. The quotes above also say a ripping
chain is semi-chisel and implies that this is the way to go when ripping
So overloaded with new information and still confused :-)
On Mon, 26 Jan 2015 10:29:07 -0800, meow2222 wrote:
Just for the hell of it I tried to find out if there was a demand for
Can't see anyone on t'Internet desperate for it.
I have quite a few cut logs all about 400mm long and pretty wide which
would presumably be big enough for turning.
However the wood also burns exceptionally well ( a chunk burnt overnight
and then for much of today ) so I would need a decent supply of hardwood
to replace it, or the funds to buy some.
So how would I go about selling it?
Any wood turners out there?
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