What does chain saw oil oil?

I probably should have asked this question years ago, but I just thought of it.

My 15", 3.25 HP Craftsman electric chainsaw has a built-in oiler, if one pushes the rubber bulb with his thumb. But the oil chamber leaks so I've been using aerosol oil. It's made mostly for motorcycle chains, but I was told it's good for chainsaws too.

What is it I'm supposed to be oiling? The rubbing area between the bar and the chain? Or the chain's teeth where they rub on the wood being cut? Or both?

I always thought it was the first, but with that cottonwood tree hanging over my yard (and now lying in the yard) I've probably done as much cutting in two days as in the previous 10 years, so I shoulld know the right answer by now.

(Actually, I would fill the oil chamber since I'm using the saw so much right now -- even when it leaks out it only makes a little mess, but it's empty again next time I need it -- , but I can't find the non-aerosol chain oil and I keep forgetting to look again.)

Reply to
micky
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The oil is supposed to end up on the chain.

Recently I made a trip to our local hardware store and they had no chain oil in stock. I did some Googling around and read that vegetable oil works. And it does seem to work pretty well.

Another thing I noticed after cleaning up some of the mess from Sandy, frequent sharpening of the blade is a good idea.

Reply to
Dan Espen

Yes. Try not using some and watch the motor bog down as the friction between the bar and the chain turn the both of them hot enough to cause blisters.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Hang the chainsaw on a nail using the small hole at the end of the bar. With the bar facing up in storage the oil will stay in the saw's oil tank.

Reply to
willshak

I have 2 electric chain saws, a 14" and a 16" that leak oil, so I usually fill them just before I go to use the saw. But itis a pain in the butt to have to stop to addoil just when I am planning on cutting tree limbs or getting a log cut into sections to split for firewood. THe only solution seems to be to keep the saws horixontal when not using, but the room I have in my garage is better suited to hanging them up with the chain end down and so the oil runs out. I slip a newspaper bag over the chain before hanging each saw upright so at least the oil is contained in the plastic bag. I would love to figure out how to stop the leak, but everyone I know has that same exact problem.

Reply to
hrhofmann

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

You and Willshak need to talk to each other. When you resolve things, I'll do whatever you agree on.

Reply to
micky

That's pretty much what I found through Google. Not only does the oil end up in the environment, it also ends up on your face and clothes.

Vegetable oil seems like a good choice.

Reply to
Dan Espen

Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30 years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.

(Recently I finished a box of baking soda I've had in my 'fridge for

30 years. My 'fridge allegedly has a special surface that doesn't absorb odors (enamel?) so I only used the baking soda to clean car batteries. The rest of the time it just sits in the fridge. I'm so happy to be rid of it. )
Reply to
micky

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

This chain oil is marked, I forget the words, but something that means it doesn't get thrown off the chain. And that seems to be the case, it doesn't get on me. But of course, it doesn't stay on the saw forever or I wouldn't need to add more. I guess I can use PAM. It's mostly canola oil. Origin of the name "Product of Arthur Meyerhoff"

Reply to
micky

Thanks. It's gotten pretty hot, but it's never slowed down, I think, probably because the chain is very loose. I tried to tighten it months ago and I don't remember what happened that it's still so loose. I probably used the wrong technique.

But anyhow, I've been spraying the oil on the bar or the chain from the side, and letting it run towards the edge of the bar, so this means I've been doing that part the right way.

I'm about 3/4 done with my tree. There's still a small amount above my head stuck in the bushes and a tree outside the fence, and there are some logs too heavy for me to lift, or at least to throw over the

40" fence, across the 5' easement, and down into the stream bed. These are two 8 or 10 foot pieces, so maybe tomorrow I'll cut them short enough to throw.

I left about 12 or 15 feet of trunk still attached to the ground, and it didn't pop up Tuesday, right after the rest of the tree was cut off of it, but since Wednesday, it's gone from a 30^ angle to the ground to a 45^ angle.

Reply to
micky

Lots of replies, some wrong information.

No, you cannot use 'use just any oil' Bar and chain oil has a special additive to help it stay on the chain. It is ther to lubricate the chain and bar. The 'stickum' is needed so the chain doesn't sling it all off as it goes arund the nose of the bar.

You mention "it does get hot" somewhere - that's why, you are using the wrong oil.

If you don't know how to adjust the chain, please have a dealer show you or hang up the saw and don't use it. YOu ae abusing a fine piece of equipment. Care/maintenance of a chainsaw is not rocket science. Running a loose chain is begging for it to be thrown off and wrap around some part of your body;.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

The oil does a couple things: Lubes where the chain touches the bar. Lubes the rivets, when the chain curves around the sprocket, and around the tip.

The bar oil that's made for that is a bit sticky, so it stays on better. I've heard that new motor oil is acceptable if needed. Used crank case oil will wear out the bar and chain, it's full of abrasive metal pieces.

Most any kind of oil can be used. As it goes into the enviroment, you really should use some that is biodegradable ( or what ever the buzz word is ). It should not harm the enviroment.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

The right way is fixing whatever problem exists with the automatic oiler. The bar oil should be continually provinding regular drops of oil as you are cutting (you can check this by pointing the tip of the bar at a piece of cardboard and looking for the fine splatter).

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

I doubt Pam will soak far enough in, to lube the rivets and the bar surface. Just a SWAG.

Can I use PAM? I've been using the same aerosol can of PAM for 30 years now, since I only use it hoping the snow won't stick to the snow shovel. Finishing this can is on my bucket list.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Put it in an anti-gravity bag.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Had an experience several years ago where I used an old can of Teflon mold release to lube my bicycle chain. After a few weeks, the chain started to rust. Apparently no oil in it to protect the chain from moisture.

I believe in using a product designed for the use.

Reply to
Frank

From what he says, apparently it has a MANUAL oiling system, not automatic. In which case it must be ancient, because I've never seen one. Even my old 1970s Stihl has an automatic oiler. And if it's that old, probably not worth fixing, unless it's a simple DIY that requires no parts. Personally, even if it was working, if it required pushing a bulb periodically to oil it, IDK how you could put up with that, except for very limited use. I recently bought a new electric saw online for $80.

Reply to
trader4

How do you know it's not a total piece of junk? The fact that from what he says, it apparently has a manual oiler, one that is leaking too, would suggest that it isn't a fine one.

Reply to
trader4

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