I recently got a Homelite 16" chain saw by John Deere. It works well, but it puts out so much bar & chain oil, that it virtually drips off of the chain when it is stopped. If I let it idle, it will drip about a drop of oil every 10-15 seconds. Is this a normal amount ??? Is it adjustable ??? It makes a mess !!!
RON ======================================================== Remove the ZZZ from my E-mail address to send me E-mail.
I don't know about that one, but most are adjustable. The Shindaiwa saws drive the oil pump after the clutch, so they don't waste bar oil when you put them down idling.
Maybe, possibly, and it sure does.
The tool will "sling" oil.
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How long does a tank last and you are using real chain oil I hope.
The older ones were - an old Norelco saw of mine had a meter screw right where the bar mounted to the engine. Not so sure about the newer consumer models. I have a 4 year old McCullough 50cc that isn't adjustable.
Nice feature - but the consumer models I've seen aren't that well engineered.
What's wrong with used motor oil? After all, it's been run through the oil filter on the car for 4000 miles; it must be clean.
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It doesn't have "tack" stuff added to it for one thing and doesn't stick to the bar/chain. If it is so "clean" why change it? To say thee is something wrong with your logic is a gross understatement.
Harry K
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It is unlikely that it is adjustable. Higher end saws do but not the cheap 'homeowner' grades. My smallest saw, MS210, does not and it cost $300.
Harry K
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Motor oil will drip and spit out the chain in no time, it doesnt have the"sticky stuff" additive so it wont sling off the blade, motor oil will be drained before you know it, then you can ruin the chain if you forget to check the tank.
I save the paper napkins from the drive through food, and put them in my saw kit, under the machine and under the bar. Not much can be done about the dripping oil.
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Actually clean has nothing to do with it. The molecule chains break down, that's why you change it.
My mac oiler is adjustable but can't say I ever have. It tends to be on the light side as far as amount but I give it a pump or 2 every once in a while.
Some get it, some don't :)
NOTE: "get it" refers to the sarcasm of your post.
NOTE 2: Sarcasm - noun Witty language used to convey insults or scorn
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I dunno about the "sarcasm". I hang out in a _professional_ arborist site and even some of them advocate the idiocy of using motor oil.
Harry K
New or used motor oil should work just fine if you add some STP to the mix. That may well be the main additive in bar oil anyhow. I think I will try it on the next tree removal project that comes up.
Joe
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I put anything that's handy in my bar oiler. Maybe if you run your saw everyday for a living the difference might amount to something but for the average diy'r it doesn't. And my saw is 30 years old. I'm on my second bar, already flipped, but I don't have a clue about number of chains. I can say that when I put a new chain on it it's because there is not enough left of the teeth to sharpen it any more. I am about due for bar number 3.
I thought that was what newspapers were for.
Try 90 weight rear axle oil.
Are you actually using bar and chain oil, or did you take advice from your neighbor or somebody on line and put motor oil in it instead?
If you're using the correct oil, then, no, that's not normal. It might be adjustable -- see your owner's manual.
It's has enough 'tack' to stick to a crankshaft spinning at 5000 rpms.
of the chain when
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Gear oil is a sticky oil, motor oil is a different thing not made to stock, there is an actual additive to make chain oil sticky, id say if it doesnt bother you by dripping out oil fast and run out old motor oil is fine
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