Car door handle

Sep 09, 2004 78 Replies

The exterior handle on my car has broken off. It's a flush fitting lift up type about 4" long. It appears to be made of 'pot' metal.



A new assembly isn't too expensive, but doesn't come ready painted - it's colour coordinated with the body. And having it painted triples the price...



The clean break is near enough a straight line along the entire length. What would be the chances of repairing it with epoxy etc - and if so which one?


...AKA crapite. As distinct from that other favourite material of the automotive industry -- polycrackathene.

To answer your question, given the temperature extremes it is likely to be subjected to, I wouldn't think an epoxy repair would last long.

Steve S

What chance have I of doing your job Dave !...

About nil I expect. :~((

In article , SteveS writes

Maybe not, it's got to be worth a try with some araldite though.

Is this the handle that you use most often? If so, can you replace the broken one with another handle from your car, then make an epoxy attempt at a repair. As long as it's not used that much you might be ok.

Not very good. If joint kept under pressure and stoved it might hold, but its not the sort of thing thats easy to achieve.

Dave,

Give Araldite (not an epoxy substitute) a try, its pretty good stuff.

Brian G

Not possible, I'm afraid. Handed and the fronts have key locks.

And I thought they glued planes together...;-)

Ah, bum! Do you know anybody with the same make/colour of car ;-) ?

Yes, but they don't make them out of crapite. Or so I hope. I may be wrong*, but I suspect they only use epoxy where the glue and material to be joined have similar expansion coefficients.

Steve S

  • Unlike SWMBO, The only time she was ever wrong was once when she thought she was wrong, but she wasn't.

They do. Only at three points though.

Hi,

Try a metal filled epoxy like JB Weld. It could be worth cleaning it with a wirebrush in a dremel if the pot metal might have tarnished when exposed to air.

cheers, Pete.

Aircraft are "mod'ded", kept up to date and in flying condition by the approval of a 'Technical Change Committee'. Submissions are made to the committee for changes giving details of the 'change' requested, the effect on spares holding, weight and balance and everyother thing that mankind can think of. Your posting reminded me of one Technical Change Proposal for the XXXX - it included a plaintive note from the engineer ;- "We've tried everything, and not even Araldite will hold it!". Pop-rivets, holding, qty (lots) were approved.

I would try a local Scrap merchant if your car is fairly old and has a popular colour.

I've used 'Plastic Padding Super Steel' and find it's far superior to Araldite for repairing metals especially where tensile strength is needed. It comes in two Araldite size tubes for mixing and sets in 5 minutes. Definitely worth a try.

Nil. No adhesive is going to have anything like the required shear strength.

Don't you have a local scrap yard?

We kept cars going from scrap yards for many years.

Mary

I'd give JB Weld a try rather than Araldite. a smearing "on the joint faces" and a good ridge along the rear face. It will take up to 24 hours to cure - don't use forced heat to speed up the curing time or the joint will be severely weakened! Bloody good stuff! I repaired a cylinder head with it years ago and its still going strong!

I'd give JB Weld a try rather than Araldite. a smearing "on the joint faces" and a good ridge along the rear face. It will take up to 24 hours to cure - don't use forced heat to speed up the curing time or the joint will be severely weakened! Bloody good stuff! I repaired a cylinder head with it years ago and its still going strong!

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