Car door handle

[raden]

In message , Paul King writes

It's the 21st century- JB Kwik, about 5 minutes

[The Natural Philosopher]

I own 4 actually, plus the wifes...although only two are currently street legal. get the bastards to pick it up and give you a courtesy car.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Use low temp solder. Site I posted up certainly managed to do it

[Huge]

[12 lines snipped]

Another problem is that the fractures are normally stress related, and the surface is crystalline. I couldn't get solder to stick, either.

(I'm suprised it isn't Dave's SD1 tailgate handle we're discussing, actually. They all broke, and the only scrappy I could find that had one, made me buy the whole tailgate to get it. It was the right colour and in much better nick than my tailgate, which compensated for having to unbolt it in the top car of a swaying stack of five...)

[Mary Fisher]

And who's going to notice if it isn't 100% anyway?

Mary

[raden]

In message , tony sayer writes

Mazak: 95% Zn, 4% Al, 1% Cu (typical).

Mazak is encountered as a die-casting alloy. It is a dreadful material to drill and tap, and its only useful characteristic, apart from diecasting properties, is that it has a high coefficient of friction and therefore makes an excellent traction tyre.

Some manufacturers use Mazak for wheels, and such wheels have a bad reputation for picking up dirt. However, like aluminium and other soft materials, this only happens when sparking is allowed to occur, as when an electrically-driven locomotive does not have enough pick-ups.

[raden]

I'm sure you can, but how strong the solder joint would be is another question

Wouldn't do the paint finish (which he's trying to maintain) much good though, would it?

[:::Jerry::::]

Going totally OT, that would be why the old Tri-ang toy railway locomotives of the '50 and early '60 were so awful at running.

[Grunff]

You know I'm going to have to try this now, don't you. If I get the floor tiling done with time to spare, I'll give it a go this weekend with some low temp solder.

[stuart noble]

[Mary Fisher]

"stuart noble" >

I've not heard the words (except that a grandson is called Ned, short for Edmund).

They don't seem to be acronyms, what's the derivation?

Mary

[Peter Parry]

Apparently the word chav has become common in southern England, and is generally thought to come from "Chatham girls". Similar bits of the mud from the urban gene pool are called charver (North East), scalley (Liverpool) , ned (non-educated delinquent), or chor in other parts of the country.

Some people think the word chav comes originally from the Romany word chavo (boy), which is also the origin of the Spanish word chaval. Originally possibly from a Sanskrit word 'chhaapaa' meaning 'young one',

[Mary Fisher]

I'm definitely missing out on these ... although I've heard of scalleys. Perhaps I'll ask some grandchildren.

Since they have the same root that's likely :-)

The root of all our languages ... thinks ... chap?

Thanks, Peter.

Mary

[The Natural Philosopher]

As in 'chap' and 'shaver' possibly?

[raden]

In message , Peter Parry writes

Not .... Cliff Richard !

If chhaapaa means "young one", then it makes "old chap" sound a bit nonsensical, doesn't it

[Jan Wysocki]

OK, perhaps it's time for some d-i-y advice.

To make a good epoxy bond you need:

1 to have clean mating surfaces Even if you haven't touched the mating surfaces, you should assume that some grease has already migrated there and thoroughly degrease the handles. You can use solvents or boil them in detergent diluted with distilled or deionised water. Make sure that the pieces are thoroughly rinsed i.e several times, with additional clean solvent or purified water - you don't want _any_ residues.

2 to mix the epoxy resin thoroughly Use a _clean_ stick or wire on a _clean- surface e.g. a clean sheet of tin or polythene to mix the epoxy thoroughly, then use a new, clean stick to transfer the bulk of the epoxy to a new surface and mix again (reason: the original mixing stick and surface will have unmixed epoxy close to their surfaces.)

3 Now coat one surface with as little epoxy as you can!

4 As Dave Plowman says you now need heat and pressure. A temperature of around 80 - 100 C will reduce the viscosity of the epoxy and accelerate setting. Pressure is required to get the bonding surfaces as close together as possible: you're aiming to get the gap between the surfaces down to molecular proportions.

If you can achieve this then you'll get a bond that may be ten or a hundred times stronger than a casually made one and it should be as strong as the surrounding the monkey metal.

[raden]

In message , Paul King writes

Not if you use JB Kwik - almost as strong and sets in a couple of minutes, as I said in an earlier post

[raden]

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

Melted down rovers and sound systems ...

[raden]

I posted it last week