Car battery question

Jan 15, 2012 29 Replies

Oh yes I remember them. They used to fail occasionally.

In my old Bedford CA van I had a second battery and a big round red switch that was off a yacht. The switch brought the second battery into use when required. I could have battery A, battery B, or both at once. This was so I could work at night with various lights on and yet still be sure of the van starting. On a really cold morning I'd have both batteries connected to start the van. It made a lot of difference.

I also remember a neighbour who started his 12VDC petrol engined lorry by means of a second battery, but he connected it in series! It never seemed to do any harm, and it certainly turned the engine over.

Also, who remembers

-- the business of building a fire under the diesel tank when it was really cold?

-- winding the window down and using a Fairy liquid bottle full of water to clean the windscreen, because screenwashers weren't fitted?

-- then, later, fitting a screenwasher kit so the MOT could be passed?

Leaving a paraffin lamp under the engine at night in the hope that it would help the car to start? (it worked, but there was a risk...)

Hanging a paraffin road lamp on the driver's door handle when parked to comply with the law? (as kids we used to steal them)

Manually changing the tyres round to even up the wear?

Running a mains lead across the pavement so the battery could be on charge all night? (the short run to and from work with the lights on wouldn't recharge the battery: the dynamo was rated at 22A and then only when you were doing 60mph!)

Bill

Or get a voltage sensing relay, as used for a caravan towing socket which usually power a fridge in the caravan. They switch off when the voltage falls below the level where the engine/ alternator would normally be running.

State of battery, ambient temperature affecting battery performance, also increasing cranking load due to thicker oil, etc. far too many variables to give any meaningful estimate.

If the volts drop too far the ignition won't work. And probably much else on a modern car.

Years ago, the RAC did just that to my Rover SD1 when the starter refused to engage, even although the battery was fine. Sticking solenoid on the pre-engage motor. I was horrified as it has a fair amount of electronics. Including the ignition and injection. But it worked. And didn't appear to do any damage. I'd not try it, though.

I'm happy to do this at home if needed - no off street parking here. I put a rubber matt over the cable. I have an outside socket by the front door for just this. ;-)

Round here any accessible source of mains power usually has a group of teenagers around it charging up their devices.

Bill

When my Disco 3 battery went flat about the only thing that worked was the bloody bonging noise to tell you the key was in the ignition. :o(

Usual problem is the solenoid dropping due to the starter motor demand, the electronics should be working suuficiently to fire the engine at any voltage that the starter will still turn the engine no matter what the drag of the engine and gearbox. With 6V coils, anything was possible, even an apparently dead battery. Used to just pull the solenoid lead and push start while using the starting key position and the engine would fire, usually after the first compression.

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