Hi all
I read at
Chris
Hi all
I read at
Chris
I do it as it helps for smoother sawing, never heard the rust story.
P >
Works for me. Some old saws here have been rubbed with wax for years. Some of the blades are now a deep shiny brown (rust?) and one is almost black. It's a mixture of oxidisation and wax and possibly a little dirt. All the saws cut smoothly. I imagine if they were left out in the rain, things would change drastically.
Hmmm! thats ok if the wood is not going to be stained or painted after the cutting?
My way is some plywood the shape of the saw (2 sides)and 1/2" battens down the edge of the shape then glue 2 pieces of polystyrene to bothe sides and glue&nail both sides together. Slide the saw into the small gap of polystyrene. :-)
The wax doesn't contain any water, any more than petrol and natural gas contain water. They all *produce* water when burned though, which is a different thing.
-- JJ
Candle wax isn't the best wax for this, as it's hard and awkward to spread. For my big static machines with cast iron tops (cabinet saw, planers etc.) I polish them with Liberon's "lubo wax", a very soft wax dissolved in white spirit. Soft floor waxes are similar.
There's no free water in wax.
Paraffin wax is composed of hydrocarbons. If you burn it with surplus oxygen the combustion products are carbon dioxide and water - the water wasn't there to start with.
Presumably you would plane it before finishing, which will remove any wax from the surface.
use the saw, when it goes rusty throw it away and buy a new one.
It's not that suitable because it is difficult to apply properly and evenly.
A much better choice is to use a light wipe of camellia oil. This is a very light vegetable oil which is very effective and doesn't make a mess or end up on the work. It's available from craft shops or you can get it from Axminster Power Tool Centre.
I believe it's generally fish oil, with scents added. Real camellia oil (look under Asian haircare) is different, both in smell and "feel". The woodworker's camellia blackens like a fish oil when you heat it, not a vegetable oil - it's not bad as a finsihing oil for small parts like this.
I'm still using Axminster's for most tools, but for the swords I use the proper stuff.
Swords?
Yes, I practice iaido and I do re-polishing / re-mounting work on Japanese swords. Only modern thoguh - 1868 and on, not the good stuff.
I make beeswax candles and tallow candles.
Spouse cares for his tools.
He doesn't use candles.
If the metal is kept dry and sharpened (and set as needed) it doesn't need any other protection to perform perfectly.
Same with swords :-)
Mary
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You must life in a very interesting part of the country if your sword remains untarnished from regular use.
I didn't say it was used regularly :-)
Mary
Many years ago I visited my mother-in-law and it then transpired that she needed a bit of wood cut. "If I just had my saw with me I would gladly oblige" I lied. Two minutes later she appeared back from the shed with a saw in one hand and an oil can in the other. "What's the oil can for?" I asked "The saw sticks when you use it" said she.
They'd never heard of a saw "set" (sp?) in that family where alternate teeth rise and fall away from the plane of the blade!
So all those years being the unpaid labourer to my carpenter father paid off after all...
Mungo :-)
It usually does!
I was the unpaid labourer to my mother ...
Mary
Of course you didn't but I need all the help I can get when I'm making a funny.
I must 've got it wrong somewhere along the line because I ended up as the unpaid labourer to my kids. I'm just waiting for one of them to send me up a chimney. :-)
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