Hi
Im going to get a lectric mite saw, one of the cheaper ones since I wont be using it a huge amount. I just thought I'd ask if there was anything to beware of when buying these. As far as I can see it'll do the job fine.
The only limitation I'm aware of is it has a carbon steel tipped blade, but thats easily replaced if I ever manage to wear it away.
Regards, NT
I have one, I have used it most weeks for the past two years and its fine, have a proper blade in it now! I also have a "De-Walt" electric drill, gear box packed in after 12½ months............
I hope you learn from your DeWalt experience. Next time buy Makita!
What make, Stuart, where did you buy it and how much was "cheap? Will be needing one ourselves soon?
I can only give my two pennies worth since I'm no woodworker, but I originally bought an 8?" cheapy and found it very restrictive in what it would cut, size wise. In fact very little of the things I commonly wanted to cut. I then replaced it with a 10" sliding type - a PPPro PP250 M5 which seems ideal for the size of stuff I need to cut. It will, for example, cut a 12" shelf. The sliding part is poor, so I tend just to use this as an easy preset rather than an operational option. I think they're still in B&Q at around 125 quid - including a tipped blade which is still ok on mine despite fairly hard use.
I bought a "powerbase" one from homebase a while ago - it cost me 40quid inc
2 blades and I got a free sander too. Both are still working fine....The blades on the chop saw are still doing fine, I have used it loads, it is great at cutting 2x2, so is great for framing, it won't handle skirting though.
Last weekend, I bought another one for my dad, I got it from makro - 30 quid, with a laser guide - hes not used it yet so we can't comment on how good it is, or isn't...
Scott
Won`t cut deep enough or what ?
If you get any info on this i`m interested - we`re there regularly :-p
----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Wilson" Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y Sent: Monday, May 03, 2004 10:14 AM Subject: Re: Budget mitre saws
Mine will cut up to 100mm, Skirtking is around 4" so there is a shortfall. Still, I use the saw to do most of it, then just finish off my hand, much quicker...
I do a lot of framing, and for this it was great, also the compound mitres needed for quadrant framing are much simplified with these machines.
What do you intend to use it for?
To be honest, my dad is a tool collector. I doubt he use it for months, if at all!
With a small saw the issue is the width, which is why a sliding saw is helpful for skirtings and shelves.
Laser guides on these "entry level" saws are really a gimmick - the accuracy isn't there with them because the line is wide with fuzzy edges. It might be good enough for very rough work - e.g. for outside.
For a given amount of money, it would be better to buy a saw with better mechanics.
Even so, don't expect too much from a mitre saw costing under £100. The mechanics are not sturdy enough to give good repeatability and regular resetting is needed.
.andy
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The problem with these saws in cut off mode is usually the width of the piece they will cut - ie skirting boards or shelving. That's why I got the sliding one. And although, as I said, it doesn't slide easily, you simply use the facility as a preset and cut twice for a large board. You can't see the 'join' if the piece is clamped properly and the saw set up correctly.
This is one of those tools where I really can't justify the spend on a good quality one, so I had to buy a cheapo one. I have the 10" NuTool sliding saw which I bought for £130.
As you say, the blade that comes with is utter rubbish - replace that with a decent blade and you'll immediately notice a huge difference.
My NuTool has a fairly solid aluminium cutting table, but the backplate was very poorly attached. A couple of extra machine screws later this is no longer a problem.
The sliding mechanism worried me most when I bought it, but in reality has been no trouble. It's just a 50mm steel tube sliding through a sleeve. I keep it well oiled, and it works fine.
If you anticipate cutting anything wider than 4", I strongly recommend you get a sliding not fixed saw - it really makes all the difference. My (better quality) fixed 10" hardly ever gets used now.
Don't try an LS1013 then. You'll want one ;-)
.andy
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I haven't used a Makita saw, but I've used a DeWalt 10" slider, and that was very nice compared to my NuTool. One day...
You've used the drill, right.... ;-)
The main things are the sturdiness of the mechanics, the ball bearing slider and the repeatability.
I had (actually still have) a Delta 10" model that was in the £150 range and it does a good job. I think with products in this range, they work OK for a lot of jobs as long as you regularly check the settings.
.andy
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Oh yes, the drill has been in almost continuous use this weekend.
It tends to be the larger items where I buy poorer makes - my Screwfix
2000W table saw, the sliding cop saw, and a 12" metal chop saw (superb thing if you do any metal work). With all three tools, it's small details which really let them down - like the backplate on the chop saw- tiny detail, but makes all the difference to the accuracy of the cut.
With the table saw it was the (lack of) alignement between saw blade and riving knife, and the poor accuracy on the angle between the blade and the table. Oh, and the poor excuse for a fence. Took a couple of hours to fix, but now I'm pretty pleased with it. The motor is great, very powerful and quiet (induction).
I'll tell you where to get em for just £26:75 in a few days. Couldnt believe it when I saw the price tag.
Regards, NT
Is that the single tube model? Mine has two tubes - so twice the friction. ;-)
You'll be even more surprised when you discover how crappy it is.....
.andy
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Yes, single tube. Funny, I'd have thought the two tubes would be better. Good thing a single tube one was all I could find!
I've got the PPpro 255, I replaced the blade with an 80tooth TCT one and have cut loads of laminate, MDF skirting and architrave. The sliding part doesn't seem to have too much play, but the trade off is that it's quite stiff and so doesn't slide that well unless you push it in just the rght place ;)
Oh, and it's *noisy*, which doesn't bother me, but the Makita is a lot quieter...
Lee
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