I've got the PPpro 210mm sliding mitre saw and it starts off quiet but goes noisy once the bearing begins to collapse - which it has done several times so far. B&Q replace it but is a bit of a nuisance.
couple of mm short - I could probably cope with that :-p
Skirting - although having read the "never again" thread recently, i`m more hesitant about trying now - our walls are out by MILES :-}
err, me too
Had an electric plane for about 3 years, and the only use its had was by someone else who made a real c*ck-up of the job I believe :-p (trimming doors IIRC)
Umm they are. It prevents side to side rocking.
.andy
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Sure, but going by what Dave says, it sounds like the cheapo implementation of the twin rail system isn't really useable in slide mode, whereas the cheapo implementation of the single rail is.
I've got mixed feelings. You can slide it, but you really need both hands to do so. But the good part is that overall it's pretty rigid and gives accurate cuts. So in this case, the el cheapo is good enough for what I need. I'm not sure how much a similar 'proper' one would cost, but I'd guess getting on for a thousand quid.
Nowhere near, but not cheap.
There's a gap in pricing above £200 until you get to products like the Makita LS1013 (about £550), Elektra Beckum (about £450), both 250mm and DeWalt DW708, a 300mm (about £600).
All of these have ballraced slides and various plusses and minusses.
The DW has a bigger blade but poor dust extraction.
The Elektra Beckum is very quiet because it has an induction motor, although for a mitre saw the running periods are short anyway.
The Makita is sturdier and has a smoother slide mechanism than the others and also has a depth of cut stop.
.andy
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It was common to have an air gap behind plaster. And I'd say with good reason in the days of cold damp houses. Also, with high Victorian skirting and no DPC it would tend to prevent any damp penetration rising through the plaster. It's no big deal to fit battens of the correct depth every foot or so to fix the new skirting to.
In message , Dave Plowman writes
Isn't it? You haven't seen the state of the walls!
On the subject of DPC, we were advised on a survey that our DPC is only half height. We have no problems with damp whatsoever, should I worry? Has anybody got any idea of how much (ballpark!) it would cost to get it to the right height? (1930's 3 bed semi, with adjoining garage).
No. If you have no signs of damp, there is no reason to hand over good money to the damp proofing industry.
Christian.
Interesting. What do they mean by a half-height DPC in this context?
Do they mean it was only half the height above the ground level that it should be, or that the impermeable layer is only half as thick as it should be (e.g. one course, not two) ???
Or the watershed ( if present) doesn't go up high enough.....???
No.
More than it would be worth....
"coherers"
Toolstation do them for £26:75. It comes with TCT blade after all, and does compound mitres. Have checked it out and am impressed, no problems with it at all so far. The blade position is firm, no movement. The worktable is all metal, and it has side extension things to rest the wood on.
Only limitation so far is that it only cuts upto 45 deg, so I shall cut a wedge piece of 20 deg wood to use as padding to enable cuts upto
65 degrees.It makes me wonder what extras you get for paying 10x the price. :)
Regards, NT
Something that cuts accurately, repeatably, to a size that's required, doesn't make a mess of the wood, doesn't fall apart and for which spares are available if required.
.andy
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In message , Coherers writes
From what I remember it was only half the height above ground level that it should be. Though there were no signs of damp anywhere and I guess it's been like that for the last 60odd years without any problems. It looks like the other half semi has had it done - which is what made me wonder. I'll ask em next time I see em. Thx
it seeems to be fine on those points - but time will tell if it goes pear shaped.
the blade is its weakest point. Its TCT but a bit mediocre. If I put a slip of wood behind the workpiece it comes out clean. Expect to get a decent blade in future. Still a good deal.
Cheaper to buy another one!
If thats what 10x the cost buys I'd get the cheapo again. It does the job ok, and I wont be using it often.
Regards, NT
It will. In not a long time.
A decent blade would cost more than the saw.
Throwing good money after bad....
Overall, by the time repeated shop visits are made, with the attendant time wasted, it is cheaper to buy something decent in the first place.
You really need to use a proper saw and compare the differences to appreciate it.
.andy
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IIRC Current standards require the dpc to be 150mm above ground level. All you'll need to do is to lower the external level sufficiently - over the years the ground level outside rises as people pave over etc. and this can cause problems were there were none before.
But as you and other posters have noted, if you haven't got a problem, then I wouldn't be overly worried.
Given that this is what I've got, I really need to avoid doing that :) Heh, I wouldnt be so happy then I'm sure.
Regards, NT
It's a case of horses for courses If you just want to cut up 2x1 battening etc on odd weekend jobs then one of the 30 quid jobbies will do as long as you set up the fence and blade square and leave it set at that
If you want to cut up wider boards skirting boards etc , make multiple angled/mitre cuts or use saw for cutting half laps then you are going to have to go for a saw that costs a fair bit more, and for half laps a sliding one with depth stop , prob quite a lot more
They cheapos are cheap cause they dont have positive accurate stops for 45 degres etc if you have used the two kinds you know that satisfying clunk you get when after cutting a mitre you turn the blade back to 90 degrees and the preset clicks into place
So in the end you get what you pay for but dont pay out for more than you actually need
BTW if you want a cheap base for a mitre saw station try an old ironing board one with a wooden board. throw away the ply board that came with it and replace with something tougher I used a ripped down piece of old worktop. then knock up a couple of table/fence extentions for either side. I found it best to make these fences a little higher than the bed of the saw and then use different thickness washers to raise the saw to the correct hieght Result a portable station that foldsup to take up very little room and can be set to various hieghts and certain saves your back the strain of using your saw on your workmate
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