You can look them up for yourself.
.. and look what happened to that industry......
What a lot of nonsense.
If a product isn't selling because people don't want to buy it for whatever reason, there is no point in producing it and paying for a workforce to produce it. Businesses aren't charitable operations.
Yes... well.....
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
I guess that it's a text book example of businesses with government involvement causing policy to be changed for political expediency and based on the notion that the primary objective of a business is to provide employment. Unfortunately, as thousands discovered to their cost at all levels, it isn't.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Having used Chinese factories many times, the key trick is to get them to make the product exactly right at least twice themselves but with you there looking from a distance to check they don't take natural short cuts. After that they will reproduce exact clones of the product time after time. Unfortunately only fully automated European factories can attain similar levels of quality.
Managed that in 2003 when I started work renovating new place. Resolved to replace ALL electrics there and then.
Damn - I thought his ability to make up new laws of thermodynamics on the spot was astonishing, but this takes the "night is day" argument to a whole new level of hilarity.
Stop making things up.
Thatcher got rid of it for spite.
Very true.
< snip the rest of the babble >
By gum, this man from the third world, Yorkshire, is at it again.
Stop making things up.
Thers a definite technique to power planing. When going onto the wood all the pressure needs to be on the front end of the plane, and when coming off the wood, all pressure needs to be on the back end of the plane. Yes, all. Do that and it will plane perfectly straight from start to finish.
As mentioned, clamp a bt of scrap on the side of the end where you come off the wood, to prevent bits of wood at the edge getting pushed off. Should be a 5 minute job, if that.
Regards, NT
Yes, well, obviously I'd never used a power plane before (and it's about
20 years since I last touched the old-fashioned sort) but fiddling about with the thing (it's a Bosch in case that makes any difference) led me to believe that the depth of cut is governed entirely by the *front* plate. If that is the case, then as soon as this plate is off the wood you will be cutting at (or over?) the maximum depth, depending simply on the height of the blade relative to the back plate.The idea (from two sources now :-) of clamping scrap to the door to "extend" the work area sounds quite good. It's just finding a big enough space in which to work which is difficult!
This is probably a problem for next week now...
Hwyl!
M.
rest assured that it works perfectly. I guess its a bit more complex how. :) Planers should always be treated with real respect btw, they arent as harmless as they look.
Regards, NT
I'm surprised you give them the time of day, IMM
Quite true.
The best way to power plane the bottom of a door is to approach it from both directions. This will stop splintering as you exit the cut. Just the width of the stile, or less on the 'out' end will do. (Professional would just chamfer this edge in order to eliminate splintering) DO mark the door with the amount you wish to remove before you start, on both sides. You will need this as a reference mark
Hi,
What happens is that the blades are slightly proud of the back plate, so the cut is governed by the front plate and the end of the back plate. When the front plate leaves the workpiece the blades bite in a bit more as the cut depends one the back plate alone.
Have a google for 'planer snipe' to get much more info.
The scrap is only really needed for the end of the cut, it doesn't need to be exactly level as long as it's above where the cut will finish. A piece of hardboard clamped or even stapled temporarily to the door should do.
If you're doing the bottom of the door then the extra bit planed off won't be noticeable anyway.
You'll be needing one of those round tuit things by then ;)
cheers, Pete.
Only the front plate adjusts. Don't the very expensive planes have both plates moving up and down together when adjusted? This would eliminate this problem.
To a certain extent it's a limitation of the design of jigsaws - the blade is thin, long and only supported at one end. Therefore deformation is bound to occur, and becomes pronounced under pressure of the operator.
However, not all power tools are created equal (despite protestations to the opposite in this ng) & IME jigsaws exhibit perhaps the largest gulf of performance in operation between cheapies and the high end. I was astounded at the difference in accuracy and efficiency between my old DIY B&D and the Atlas Copco BSPE100 that I eventually bought. When choosing a jigsaw look especially closely at the guide roller, this should be as close to the base plate as possible because it provides the support for the blade.
Make sure you use appropriate blades - wide blades (or is that deep?) are not good for tight corners, but will follow a straight line a lot better. I've been quite happy with some DeWalt blades for general purpose cutting.
For greatest flexibility of application, I'd go with a mains saw. For decent accuracy I would always ensure that a future saw I buy has a cast alloy base plate instead of a pressed steel one. I don't like my saw because it has a pressed steel plate, and the mounts for this flex under pressure which takes the cut off line & slightly off vertical. Also, when I raise the saw to reduce the depth of the cut, or to increase clearance of the motor from the workplace (to get over the clamps that I use for my saw guide) it changes the cut line by a couple of mm and makes the flexion problem worse.
Aside from the most powerful saw in your budget, I'd look for features such as a brake, dust extraction port that can actually be connected to a vacuum (some are there just to eject waste, not for collection) and pay attention to the spindle size of the blades used (have a look at the Axminster or D&M websites to make sure you'll be able to get blades in the size and with the same spindle size for the saw). Trade & Industrial brands ought to come with a carry case, and you should be able to find a deal with a spare blade.
A fine cut blade would be a useful additional purchase - I've got a freud pro blade and that has been producing very good results.
hope this helps
-- Richard Sampson
email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
I know....
Don't think so, just that the blades are better aligned with the back plate.
With a cheap planer sticking a few layers of aluminium tape to the start of the back plate should help reduce planer snipe.
cheers, Pete.
IMHO this is a method that cant produce a straight finish without a lot of mucking about, and its way easier to just master the principle of the tool and do it right.
Regards, NT
In message , IMM writes
Eh?
40 years ago is my when my dad had a millers falls circular saw, a wolf drill, a bosch jigsaw, several black and Decker drills,wolf drills, sanders, huge silver core drill of unknown make, 30 years ago he had acquired an angle grinder, bosch belt sander, portable jointer and table saw. 25 years ago I had more power tools than I could fit in the van all at the same time. Only the last decade I've worried about 110v most of the gear is 240.What are you on about?
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