Best-value plasterboard wallplugs?

If they are going to be bookshelves loaded with books, fixing to the plasterboard won't be strong enough. Fix directly to the studs.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:

Actually, they are only short (3ft) bookshelves, going in an alcove I need to fix two screws into the sides of the alcove, which butt against the end of each shelf. Unfortunately the studs are not positioned such that I can screw into them.

Al

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk:

They are only 3ft-long shelves, going in an alcove. For each shelf, I want to drive two screws into the wall where each shelf-end butts against the side of the alcove. In each case, the rear screw can go into a stud, but not the front one, due to stud-positioning.

Al

In this situaition it would be better to fit ladder type shelving to the back wall of the alcove

shelves 3 ft long will will not take kindly to just being supported at the ends even if the end wall was solid enough to fit battens securely (unless the shelves are very thick)

been there done that .... then have done it properly for years since

Regards

Tony

In this situaition it would be better to fit ladder type shelving to the back wall of the alcove

shelves 3 ft long will will not take kindly to just being supported at the ends even if the end walls were solid enough to fit battens securely (unless the shelves are very thick or have end to end supports on the underside)

Regards

Tony

sorry about the double post edited the original then sent both by mistake

"TMC" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com:

Thanks for the input. I am fully confident in the suitability and rigidity of my shelves.

Al

If you cant fix to studs then I reckon these hollow wall anchors are the best bet

"TMC" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@bt.com:

Thanks for the input. I am confident that my wooden shelves are adequately strong and rigid for this 3ft span, based on past experience. If money were no object, I'd probably fit aejustable steel shelf brackets to the back wall, but I want to avoid that expense.

Al

For general use Rawlplug Uno. Work in anything. Truly universal plug.

Drill a 6mm pilot hole.

You can use them in the voids behind dot n dab as long as you drill a deep enough hole.

Weatherlawyer wrote in news:ec06cfb1-0180-4681- snipped-for-privacy@m19g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

Patress? Can you please clarify what you mean? I have only heard of 'patress' as in 'patress box' (the electrical item).

Another bedroom.

Cheers

Al

I have had some success on dot n dab with the shorter ones but the longer ones seem to foul as the wings open in the deeper hole

If you really need the cheapest option, make a half inch hole in the PB, squeeze a bit of card in there so it sits below the hole, then pack hole and surrounsding voild with filler. Now fix screws with ordinary plugs, or if even thats too much money then with matchsticks, scrap plastic, etc.

NT

In message , AL_n writes

I've used the metal versions (Redidrive?) of these a few times - I used them in the old house to hold up some curtain track. Seemed to work ok.

I've found the following to be the best for light to medium use.

Does one /need/ the setting tool, or does it just make them much faster to use?

Ought to stop the occasional time when they refuse to bite and end up spinning round damaging the plasterboard around the hole.

You don't *need* it in that you can set them with a screwdriver. The setting tool does make setting them much faster and accurate, in that you know it has set properly.

I have been wondering if these would be any good for hollow hardboard doors? I need to fix some hooks to the back of bedroom doors and the fixing that I have used seem to pull out.

Does anyone have any experience of using them for this?