Some are very clever - but they are not so good with items that require you to just put a screw in the wall and the item just hangs on the end of the shank. As you are not tightening the screw things don't open and take the strain.
Put washer[s] behind the screw head for it to tighten onto?
Andy Burns wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mid.individual.net:
Not always possible as the shank size of the screw can be important.
Another annoyance I have is a towell rail which heas rectangular stand-off of about 1" section that slips over a screwed in spigot and thigtens with a grub screw. The spigot is only about 1cm diameter and has a screw running through it.
If you are talking about these
Then tighten the screw to open them and then unscrew them.
Or use a Rawlplug UNO and a screw.
The only plasterboard fixing of any use IMHO.
You can do that but a proper setting tool is quicker. Keep an eye open in lidaldi, either have them occasionally with several different sizes of fixing.
Indeed they are, but the trigger type are a bit flakey. This type, though harder to find, are much better IMO.
I guess you could use a Rivnut setting tool too, presumably cavity fixings are normal metric threads.
Havn't used plasterboard cavity fixings for ages, but have done various Rivnut mods on my cars / vans more recently.
I've successfully used a two part fitting, which the link below calls a wall screw. The wall screw itself has a very deep thread which screws into the plasterboard and spreads the load. It has a hole down the centre into which you drive a supplied screw to whatever depth you require. The wall screw can be made of zinc alloy or nylon.
You can use this type of fitting on dot and dab plasterboard where there isn't enough space behind the plasterboard for the multitude of p/b fixings that expect to open out behind the p/b, including toggle bolts and wall anchors. You can also remove the fastener screw without removing the wall screw.
For some of my walls, where the dabs are particularly thin, I've had to drive the wall screw part way in, then remove it and break off the tip in order to drive the wall screw fully in. (The flange at the front needs to be gripping the front of the p/b.)
Whilst I'm here wittering about dot & dab fixings I've also used DrylinePro wallplugs for heavier fixings to dot & dab p/b over solid walls (aerated concrete blocks in my case). I've got a couple of well-filled 4 ft wardrobe shelf/rails hanging off these and also some Spur-type bookshelves.
Very surprised no one has come across these:
I've used a few and I am extremely impressed (having used every other type in the past).
I've seen 'em in Wickes, but they seemed a bit expensive to buy the variety pack just in case I need any, easier to remember they're there (or they'll fail to sell many and stop stocking them by the time I decide I need some).
I recommend a pack of the yellows - good enough for most things with sometimes the reds being handy for large things. I don't think I would every use the blue or brown, because I wouldn't trust the PB itself to that sort of load.
Handy thing with the yellows are that if you have a fixing that's pulling out (like teh coat hook I did last year) you can you open the remains of the hole out, shove them in and refix. TMH might find them handy in a repair context.
They're expensive, but if you are hanging something that costs £20-30 and you need 2, it's a pretty small overhead.
Comparing the 25 pack yellows against hollow wall anchours the wall anchours can be considerably more. Mind you the prices/quantities I found for wall anchours on the Wickes site were more "Homebase" than "Builders Merchant".
With the fixing in sheer PB is very strong, what it doesn't like is tourque or pull. Judgeing by the shortness of the supplied screws these gripits are designed to keep things in sheer. Ie fixing a thin metal plate to the wall rather than a 18 mm thick batten.
Intresting all the same, especially if you have sod all gap between PB and wall, Dot and dab, boxed lintle...
Tim Watts wrote in news:kak4sc-kv4.ln1 @squidward.sv.dionic.net:
It was the Gripit that made me realise that they didn't meet my particular need. They rely on:
Not particularly - assuming the load is not going to push them into the cavity, they don't have any requirement to be under tension to work.
That is true - quite a big hole even for the smallest yellow ones...
You can switch the screw for more or less any 5mm wood screw. The larger ones have thread for set screws.
For dot'n'dab on blockwork there are two others I've used:
are excellent for moderate to heavy loads - a modified frame fixing (I used to use frame fixings for heavy shelving, but usually needed a drop of glue to stop them spinning in celcon blocks)
and if you are hanging a massive TV on a long arm nothing beats these:
A quid each, but if you use 4-6 on a TV costing £300-700, well... The only fixing I've seen that actually quotes pull out loadings (max working and failure).
Just spotted something similar on the Wickes website...
It's rather to easy to "overset" with the rachet trigger device. B-) With the "plier" sort can you load a fixing into the head and not have it fall out if you release the pressure on the handles?
There are lots and lots of fixings which 'set' when you tighten the screw. You can then slacken the screw - or replace it with a hook or whatever.
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