Some are very clever - but they are not so good with items that require you
to just put a screw in the wall and the item just hangs on the end of the
shank. As you are not tightening the screw things don't open and take the
Not always possible as the shank size of the screw can be important.
Another annoyance I have is a towell rail which heas rectangular stand-off
of about 1" section that slips over a screwed in spigot and thigtens with a
grub screw. The spigot is only about 1cm diameter and has a screw running
I guess you could use a Rivnut setting tool too, presumably cavity
fixings are normal metric threads.
Havn't used plasterboard cavity fixings for ages, but have done various
Rivnut mods on my cars / vans more recently.
On Sun, 20 Mar 2016 21:11:41 +0000, David Lang wrote:
Just spotted something similar on the Wickes website...
It's rather to easy to "overset" with the rachet trigger device. B-)
With the "plier" sort can you load a fixing into the head and not
have it fall out if you release the pressure on the handles?
I've successfully used a two part fitting, which the link below calls a wall
screw. The wall screw itself has a very deep thread which screws into the
plasterboard and spreads the load. It has a hole down the centre into which
you drive a supplied screw to whatever depth you require. The wall screw
can be made of zinc alloy or nylon.
You can use this type of fitting on dot and dab plasterboard where there
isn't enough space behind the plasterboard for the multitude of p/b
fixings that expect to open out behind the p/b, including toggle bolts
and wall anchors. You can also remove the fastener screw without
removing the wall screw.
For some of my walls, where the dabs are particularly thin, I've had to
drive the wall screw part way in, then remove it and break off the tip
in order to drive the wall screw fully in. (The flange at the front needs
to be gripping the front of the p/b.)
Whilst I'm here wittering about dot & dab fixings I've also used DrylinePro
wallplugs for heavier fixings to dot & dab p/b over solid walls (aerated
concrete blocks in my case). I've got a couple of well-filled 4 ft wardrobe
shelf/rails hanging off these and also some Spur-type bookshelves.
I've seen 'em in Wickes, but they seemed a bit expensive to buy the
variety pack just in case I need any, easier to remember they're there
(or they'll fail to sell many and stop stocking them by the time I
decide I need some).
I recommend a pack of the yellows - good enough for most things with
sometimes the reds being handy for large things. I don't think I would
every use the blue or brown, because I wouldn't trust the PB itself to
that sort of load.
Handy thing with the yellows are that if you have a fixing that's
pulling out (like teh coat hook I did last year) you can you open the
remains of the hole out, shove them in and refix. TMH might find them
handy in a repair context.
They're expensive, but if you are hanging something that costs £20-30
and you need 2, it's a pretty small overhead.
On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 07:34:10 +0000, Tim Watts wrote:
Comparing the 25 pack yellows against hollow wall anchours the wall
anchours can be considerably more. Mind you the prices/quantities I
found for wall anchours on the Wickes site were more "Homebase" than
With the fixing in sheer PB is very strong, what it doesn't like is
tourque or pull. Judgeing by the shortness of the supplied screws
these gripits are designed to keep things in sheer. Ie fixing a thin
metal plate to the wall rather than a 18 mm thick batten.
Intresting all the same, especially if you have sod all gap between
PB and wall, Dot and dab, boxed lintle...
You can switch the screw for more or less any 5mm wood screw. The larger
ones have thread for set screws.
For dot'n'dab on blockwork there are two others I've used:
are excellent for moderate to heavy loads - a modified frame fixing (I
used to use frame fixings for heavy shelving, but usually needed a drop
of glue to stop them spinning in celcon blocks)
and if you are hanging a massive TV on a long arm nothing beats these:
A quid each, but if you use 4-6 on a TV costing £300-700, well... The
only fixing I've seen that actually quotes pull out loadings (max
working and failure).
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