can one isolator switch just outside a bathroom isolate both the fan and the heater or are two switches needed?
[george]
can one isolator switch just outside a bathroom isolate both the fan and the heater or are two switches needed?
You could use one switch, but won't the heater need to be on a power circuit and the fan is usually on the lighting circuit? Owain
You might want run the fan without the heater.
Maybe George has pull-cord switches inside. In that case the bigger issue is whether he has correct fusing or other protection for the two different devices.
aha - the humidity controlled fan needs a lower fuse...
I have a double pole isolator switch for the electric shower on a pull switch just inside the door and the fan is run at low voltage from a transformer box outside the door.
My bathroom heater, a 1 bar so called infra red device like those often over beds is on the lighting circuit for the upstairs, but it is under a kw, it has to be said, and is supposedly steam proof. A lie normally grin. Brian
Presumably we are talking about isolation for maintenance and not functional switching?
You could use one, if suitably labelled, however some things to consider:
Are they on the same circuit?
Does the fan need a three poll isolator? (and if so, is the isolator switch capacity large enough for the heater?)
Yup.
No, they don't have to be.
Ideally if the switches are out of sight of the person doing maintenance, they should have a facility to be "locked off". However that is probably more onerous than really required for most domestic settings.
Many manufacturers of fans state they need 3A fusing - even when running from a lighting circuit protected at 6A. I tend to mount a (non switched) FCU and a three poll isolator close to the fan (assuming its in zone 2 or outside)
More on fan wiring:
Do you/others know how people carrying out EICRs generally deal with isolators in Zone 2? I accept the argument that an isolator is only likely to be used very occasionally, for maintenance of the fan, by people not straight out the bath/shower. But I don't know if there's something one could wave at those who disagree. (I'm too mean to buy the current guidance note 7 to see what that says.)
They ought to be outside zone 2, although note that only extends up to
2.25m / ~7'4.5" in height. So in many cases a isolator close to the ceiling is outside of the zones.
BTW I bought a copy of the 14th edition 1966 "REGULATIONS FOR THE ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF BUILDINGS" regs from a second hand book shop in Rochester whilst stopping there for TMH's funeral.
No amendment no - it just says "REPRINTED IN METRIC UNITS incorporating Amendments 1970" on the front cover.
£3.50 and in good condition.I also picked up an Aerial Handbook 1964 1st edition for Bill.
I have a 2nd edition, bought from the Rank Wharfedale Book Department, and still has the insert of their other book prices, dated 1975 -
Aerial handbook 95p incl postage Cabinet handbook £1.18 incl postage Musical Instruments & Audio £1.65 incl postage About Your Hearing 78p incl postage
Andrew
thanks.
I asked only as I have seen some suggest that isolators can be fitted in zone 2 on the basis of their not being day-to-day functional switches and wondered (possibly due to a cosmic particle shower in my brain) if John might just possibly be off that view.
Fits with the way my family in Kent insist the Medway Towns are stuck in the past :)
Won't taking the fuse out 'lock them off' ?
I'm now planning to get several LAP 13A SWITCHED FUSED SPUR WHITE (29377) from screwfix, and fitting one above each fan, heater, or shaving light in the loft.
In your case yes. Or just switching them off will be fine in your own home as no one else will mess with them.
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