Basic router use questions

With 10 to make it is probably easier to go,with a dedicated jig less setting up to do a simple centre line where you want the handles to go and plunge away. A cutter should go through the Formica but it will shorten the cutters life so I would drill at least one hole with Forstner bit or brad point drill just to ease the job of the cutter. If you are concerned about getting a smooth finish at the bottom of the slot , only drill part way to get through the Formica and finish it by plunging the router to your desired depth.

Agreed with one comment. A cheap router bit that you use and throw away because its destroyed afterwards may not be the worst option.

I'd go with a jig and guide bush, that should give you accuracy and repeatability, as you say you can test on some scrap before you go.

So basically you want a rectangular recess (with rounded corners) in the surface so you can reach in and grab the handle to lift it, but otherwise it can fold down to be below the surface?

It will plunge ok - slight side to side motion as you plugs will make it easier.

I would make a jig from a bit of ply or similar, and use a template guide inserted into the base of the router to follow it. That way you don't need a top bearing cutter, and you have more freedom of choice on depth.

The hole in the template will need to be oversized to allow for the difference in diameter between the bush and the router cutter.

The radius in the corners of your final recess will be dictated by the radius of the cutter used.

OK, so what will a jig look like for this? I think I have guide bushes that will work with my router.

If you have guide bushes for your router then I would use them rather than cutters with bearings ( I will explain if required). Fit your guide bushes for to the router base and if you require super accuracy then use a conical mandrel in the tool holder to centre the bush.

The jig will be a flat piece of material which is thicker than the protrusion of the bush. If you are requiring the same distance from an edge then a stop piece can be added on the underside enabling you to simply slide the jig along for repeatable distance settings. The opening size in the jig is dependant on the cutter diameter and the bush diameter. The most common bush size is 30mm and often comes with the router so using one of these subtract the cutter diameter from the bush diameter eg. A 10mm cutter subtracted from 30mm =20mm meaning the cutter is offset by 10mm on the radius. In the above example that means the opening in the jig will be 10mm wider all round than the desired cutout in the material. For the above example a 150mm x 50mm desired cutout the jig opening will be 170mm X 70mm.

Do consider how the jig is going to be held in place, if with clamps then make sure it is wide enough to use clamps without interfering with the base of the router. Alternatively it can be held in place with screws if screw holes in the piece being cut are acceptable.

Richard

Thanks for this and all the other answers, I will go and do some experimenting now I think! :-)

Excellent explanation good sir :-)

Alternatively, if clamping is difficult and you don't want a penetrative fixing, stick a couple of strips of masking tape on the underside of the jig, and then another couple in a matching pattern on the surface you want to route. Apply a bead of CA glue to the tape on the router, then spray the mating surface tape with CA glue activator. Now position the jig in place. Within a few secs the glue will grab and fix in place. It gives a very good fixing that will resist shifting. Once done you can price the jig off the surface, and it will pull away at the tape leaving the surfaces unmarked. You can then repeat for the next one.

Thanks for this further idea. The surface isn't **very** pristine and is under a carpet but I guess avoiding [more] holes in it wouldn't be a bad idea.

I think I can probably use clamps, it's quite a big panel and I can make the jig as large as I like. The only issue is that I have to do quite a bit of this at home before my next excursion to the boat in France and then hope I've remembered to take eveything needed with me. Small things forgotten (or broken) can be obtained when in France but major (or expensive) items can't really.

Thanks again everyone who has contributed ideas, I'll report success or otherwise when I return (mid March). :-)

Just be aware that not all router bits are bottom cutting so if you need to plunge cut make sure you choose one that does.

I thought he said a carpet is normally on top of these panels, so a depression ?8mm deep is going to be obvious if you plant your heel into it.

I thought he wanted to route out a slot just over 8mm wide and deep to accomodate just the tubular shape of that handle when folded flat.

I'm not sure where the stub below the hinges will end up though.

Yes, though I mentioned the carpet later on.

That's the idea, a U shaped slot that the handle just drops into, obviously it needs a bit of clearance round it and a 'finger hole' along one side to be able to lift it up.

In a slightly deeper counter-bored hole. The stub is (if I remember right) 14mm and the panel is 30mm thick so there's adequate depth for it. A bolt through from the other side will hold it, I'll add a good size 'penny washer' or similar to be sure it won't break through.