Adhesive Recommendations....

SDS

Ordinary hammer drills are useless on anything other than cinder blocks and plaster.

how strong a bond do you need? the no more nails stiff will do a fair job.

as will car body filler.

degreasing the quarry tile is the key (sic!)

Er, I was hoping for an adhesive solution if at all possible. How about something like No More Nails for example?

Polyester resin bonds extremely well to clean ceramic.

substrate and having only a pile of burnt out masonry bits to show for it, I've decided to investigate easier options.

tiles? If anyone has any suggestions, my drill, drill bits and I would be supremely grateful, THANK YOU!!

Epoxy would certainly do it. It can be used as a thin film to save cost. PU's half the price or less.

NT

I think the technical term is "shear strength" - I think I have that right. In other words, I want the blocks on the tiles to be able to withstand hav ing clout nails banged into them to fix plasterboard. So I don't want them to give when knocked sideways as it were.

t. In other words, I want the blocks on the tiles to be able to withstand h aving clout nails banged into them to fix plasterboard. So I don't want the m to give when knocked sideways as it were.

use dry wall screws to fix the pb

Jim K

you need some new ones then

Jim K

other words, I want the blocks on the tiles to be able to withstand having clout nails banged into them to fix plasterboard. So I don't want them to give when knocked sideways as it were.

Most plasterboard is screwed on these days with bugle headed screws so no need to resist hammering.

I don't think you read the original question, JK. It's not the pb to the wood blocks that I'm asking about; it's the blocks to the stone floor.

In other words, I want the blocks on the tiles to be able to withstand having clout nails banged into them to fix plasterboard. So I don't want them to give when knocked sideways as it were.

banging something is the hightest possible PEAK stress and will break almost any glue unless its soaked INTO the meterial. And in the case of wood may even shear the wood itself

As a model aircraft builder, I have lots of experience of glued structures under high peak stresses.

The glue doesn't fail, the wood does ... epoxy on ply on undercarriages

- the epoxy tears off yanking the wood fibres with it. If you lace the UC on, then the ply tears out showing the same failure mode.

Dry wall screws to fix the plasterboard.

wood blocks that I'm asking about; it's the blocks to the stone floor.

really??

I've also read this one of yours too:-

" snipped-for-privacy@virgin.net Mar 20, 9:00 pm

I think the technical term is "shear strength" - I think I have that right. In other words, I want the blocks on the tiles to be able to withstand having clout nails banged into them to fix plasterboard. So I don't want them to give when knocked sideways as it were."

Do come back if you still can't understand it?

Jim K

Giboogle translates ? ;>)

(NB think the OP managed the "pb" part, but failed to grasp the slightly obvious notion of using screws to fix it to the blocks....)

Jim K

I don't think you understood his reply. Hammering to a glued block is guaranteed to bugger the joint.

blocks that I'm asking about; it's the blocks to the stone floor.

the blocks on the tiles will fail by the wood splitting. The trouble with glue is it doesn't allow for any movement. Ergo the peak stresses will be enough to shear the WOOD, not the glue. glue is usually stronger than the wood it bonds to.

If you want to use nails then make the complete stud wall up first, plate it with board and THEN glue it in place

we understand it better than you do.

But how you fix the PB to the blocks affects how you fix the block to the floor. Using dry wall screws instead of clouts means that there is far less stress on the block to floor joint when you fix the PB.

Personally I'd say get yourself a SDS drill and screw the blocks down. The difference between SDS and an ordinary hammer drill (even with sharp bits...) is huge. For small dia holes, up to 8mm or so I've yet to find anything that makes my SDS really work. That includes stone, the bit just goes in.

You still don't get it, do you?

wood blocks that I'm asking about; it's the blocks to the stone floor.

Now THAT is a good suggestion, NP!