what saw blade do i need?

[steve]

Hello all, I am using a table saw to cut some laminate flooring to do my basement stairway. I was wondering if there is a specific type of saw blade tooth size i should use. Any suggestions? regards, Steve

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Must be carbide tipped. I'd get an 80 tooth blade normally used for cross cutting. It will work for the few rips you must do also. Plan to have the blade sharpened after the job is done. Laminate is very tough on saws.

[akbalozlem]

hello steve my name =FDs =F6zlem my msn adress [e-mail]

[barry]

Assuming your main issue is clean-cutting, with no tearout ...

Size has little to do with it. Contour and quality of sharpening of teeth are critical, in addition to having blade runout ~0, and fence precisely parallel to the blade for rips. If you must use miter gauge, its slot must be precisely parallel the blade, of course.

There are many good books published on table saws, with much detail on blade design, for example Ian Kirby's and Jim Tolpin's.

A quality ATB (alternate top bevel) or ATBR (alternate top bevel with raker) or "triple-chip" would work well for laminate, with the first two suritable for cross and rip cuts. Probably 40-tooth for relatively general use.

I'd use a SCMS for the cross-cuts. With quality, sharp blade. Carbide goes without saying.

There are other tricks you can resort to, to prevent tearout. Check the books, and articles in "Fine Woodworking" and other mags.

J

[bamboo]

[JimL]

I used a 'combo' blade'.

Also try flipping the wood over and see if you get a cleaner cut. Worked for me.

[djh7097]

A cheap, carbide tipped, 40 tooth, 7.25" circular saw blade is the way to go:

1. At a few bucks each they're disposable
2. You don't need the cuting depth of a full 10" blade
3. Lower rim speed and less momentum make it a touch safer in the event of kickback
4. Half the kerf means half the dust and laminate creates some nasty dust!
5. You won't be destryoing a decent blade