Metric prefixes=
eta- 10^18=1,000,000,000,000,000,000 peta- 10^15=1,000,000,000,000,000 tera- 10^12=1,000,000,000,000 giga - 10^9=1,000,000,000 mega 10^6=1,000,000 kilo- 10^3=1,000
10^0=1 mili- 10^-3=.001 micro- 10^-6=.000,001 nano- 10^-9=.000,000,001 pico- .10^-12=.000,000,000,001 femto- 10^-15=.000,000,000,000,001 atto- 10^-18=.000,000,000,000,000,0011 nanofarad = 1000 picofarad = .001 microfarad .001 picofarad = 1 femtofarad.
Sounds like you've got those units right. For some reason they don't seem to use milli- (10^-3) or nano- with capacitors.
I don't know much about old electronic stuff, but in the more recent stuff there are a lot of .001 uF (not uuF or pF) capacitors.
Antique B+W TV sets were power hogs. I can't picture a picofarad cap having an existence in the circuitry. Plus if the cap is physically big enough to have color dots printed on it for cap value purposes its likely a lot higher than the picofarad value.
(millionth) of a microfarad.
commercial capacitor made with such a low
microfarad in nanofarads" and it'll give you the
Isn't it amazing - how much we all "sort of" resemble or try to emulate - Uncle Fester - Addamms Family! I recall a toy store next to my house as a child used to sell a "light bulb" you could stick in your mouth to make it light up - like Uncle Fester. Those were the good ole days - "before" learning "safety".
I recall a time, I had an H.F. rig needing repaired. The damned volt probe kept slipping off the post with clip installed. I knew to keep one hand out or else. Well, I said to myself mentally (the angel on my shoulder speaking) - dummy - you're going to get lit up if you stick both your hands in there to hold those probes in place. BUT - (the devil on my other shoulder prodding me on) I didn't heed my own advice and I did just that - stuck both hands in. YEP - sure as hell - I got lit up. Served me right. Man, that tickled worse than the "Light socket". Didn't have to kick myself in the ass - the shock did a good enough job.
I still get a tingle now and then, but not like I used to. I take less chances. Too old to do that stuff now. Don't know how many more ticks the ole hearts clock has left in it, don't want to short circuit them.
While argument goes on, on pico micro and so on. This three capacitor above you can make up of three different ones all you need to remembered that all three have same common -leg as you have them listed, one combine unit I don't believe you will find if you do find one $40.00 bucks is not outrageous.
Small cap is must likely ceramic device color code will be voltage rating and % value I think to know for sure you need to know MFG. it can be substituted with silver mica 300VDC or higher.
It's .001 mFd, or uFd if you prefer. A value commonly found in older radios.
Look here
The u's are either mu's or they are u's used to represent mu's, the Greek letter that micro begins with.
But there's no reason to think it is bad, right? You're just asking about the value.
Go to
Or look for ham radio clubs on the same webpage.
If you can't get 80's, you can use two 40's or four 20's, etc. You can go higher on the mfd's, but no lower on the voltage.
I needed soemthing like yours for my 1930 Hallicrafters radio. The original cap lasted 60 years, which I think is pretty good. But I couldn't find what I needed in 1 or even 2 pieces.
Even when they don't leak, if there is a loud hum coming from the speaker, it's probably the power supply filter capacitor. It's after the diodes (tube or transistor) and before the rest of the radio/tv.
It takes the 60 cycle hum out of the power supply. Since the AC has been rectified, the hum is 120 cycles per second. If someone can tell one tone from another, you can tell for sure (although I'm sure without getting out of my chair.)
I can remember making a Jacob's ladder with a oil burner transformer, and sticking all manner of objects into the resulting arc to see what would happen - paper would get holes punched through it and sometimes catch fire, etc. One day I held a pencil by the eraser end (metal) into the arc. Of course, the high voltage traveled up the inside of the pencil and discharged to the metal end I was holding (duh!) Naturally, I didn't attempt THAT one again...
You ain't seen a Jacobs Ladder till you see this one that shoots 100 feet in the air from a 500KV. Go to: http://205.243.100.155/frames/longarc.htmThen watch the video called "This is the record holder for the world's largest unintentional Jacob's Ladder!".
Of course look at the others too. I love this website !!!!
By the way, I used to play with neon light transformers. They can really kick butt !!!!
ROFLMAO - that was funny. Not then, but boy how we can laugh at ourselves now - eh?
L.
Yup, the ones of us who lived! ;)
Marking standards were all over the map in the early days. MFD would have been MicroFarads, but by todays standards a capital "M" would indicate MegaFarads, which is an unlikely size...
MMF or MMFD usually indicated MicroMicroFarads, which today we call PicoFarads. I do not recall having seen uufd, but by description it is almost certainly .001 MicroFarads (1000 PicoFarads), probably silver mica and they don't usually go bad unless badly abused.
The "dominoes" were an early molded packaging scheme that isn't used anymore. Usually red or brown and the dots color code for value.
Many of these multi-section electrolytics were made to order, and almost no one does things this way anymore. Try Antique Electronics Supply for some similar generic parts. There used to be a couple companies that would repack the original cans for a hefty fee. If you just want to get it to play, you can figure a way to mount three individual caps of similar value.
Some early makers used an electromagnet (the extra coil), which may also do double duty as a supply filter inductor, and when the filter caps get bad they hum quite a bit. Almost everyone eventually settled on the permanent magnet setup to simplify wiring, replacement, etc.
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