On Friday, January 25, 2013 6:57:44 AM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
I am so effing sick of this extremist rhetoric.
They're not coming to take your light bulbs any more than they're coming to take
your guns. Our Federal government is too broke and mired down in its own
dysfunction to go around kicking in doors and smashing light bulbs, Elliott Ness
What's banned is the manufacture and importation of 75 watt incandescent bulbs,
except for special-use types (i.e. rough service, floodlights, etc.).
You can still use existing 75 Watt bulbs. You can still buy them as long as
supplies hold out. A couple boxes of them will likely last you the rest of your
life, and your kids will be used to CFL's so they won't care.
On Jan 25, 3:33 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Then if the govt is so broke and mired down, why is the focus of
the White House and the libs more gun control instead of spending
cuts to reduce the budget? Polls consistently show that people
put creating jobs and reducing the deficit as top priorities. Banning
assault weapons are way down the list. But it's a nice diversion
courtesy of you libs.
And if they aren't taking your guns, why did NY state just pass a
law that makes the standard magazines sold with probably 90%
of the legal pistols for self defense illegal? Not only are
sales banned of any magazine greater than 7 rounds, but legal
owners have a year to get rid of them. Before
that, NY banned mags greater than 10 rounds. Now it's 7. See
a trend here and why it's obvious what you libs are up to?
Wow, you can still buy them until they run out.... How generous
of you libs. I'm sure you'll do the same thing when you ban fatty
foods and have us all eating soylent green.
Yeah, NYC banned soft drinks over a certain size.
Next, the McBurger ban, and then who knows.
But scientists have shown that flu shots are good
for us, it's the mercury. And Obama was born
in Hawaii. And, Thalidomide is good for pregnant
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Wow, you can still buy them until they run out....
How generous of you libs. I'm sure you'll do the
same thing when you ban fatty foods and have us
all eating soylent green.
Right on. The rants about government control are more than tiresome. In
the case of light bulbs, the legislation to phase them out started with the
energy advocates. They went to the Congressional staff of the House and
Senate Energy Committees and said that they wanted to regulate certain
inefficient light bulbs so that more efficient bulbs would be used. The
advocates had plenty of support - some utilities, other energy conservation
groups and lots of people who thought saving energy is a good idea. They
organized and took their message to Congress. Then Congress held hearings,
asked folks, including the light bulb manufacturers, what they thought and
the legislation was written. It must have been a fair process because no
one was happy with the results. I haven't found anyone involved who got
what they wanted. Then, the legislation went to Congress, was approved by
both houses and signed by President Bush in 2007. It kicked in 5 years
later - in 2012 with the phase out of the 100 watt bulb - and all of a
sudden the critics woke up and started complaining about government control.
Now, with the free market working, more bulb choices available than ever
before at about any price range that you want and with energy being saved
with all of them, I wonder just what the fuss is about and where critics
were when the laws were being debated.
B-b-b-but communism, Obama, they're taking our rights away!
I say, screw in those curly Q, mind reading, light bulbs and surrender.
After a few years you won't even notice.
On 01/25/2013 03:33 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I'll never get used to CFLs, they suck on several levels. The ONLY
thing that they have going for them is that they are more efficient than
The good news is that by the time recently-purchased CFLs start going,
LEDs will be widely available and affordable.
I'm using a 9W LED bulb in my bedside lamp; it was on sale at Lowe's for
$10 or so last year. I have no complaints with it at all, although I
don't remember seeing CRI specs on the packaging (one place where CFLs
tend to fall down unless you get expensive ones that you're not likely
to find in retail stores.) It is dimmable, which I've yet to see
acceptably demonstrated with CFLs even ones advertised as such. It also
is at full brightness in a second or so as opposed to a minute or so for
a CFL. If brighter LED bulbs were available for a similar price (and I
expect that they will be in a few years) I'd see no need to ever buy
another CFL again.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
I'm not seeing the original post. Based on the question in the subject line:
Maybe it would work fine, or maybe it would overheat and burn something.
Why risk it?
Use a CFL bulb or an LED bulb that is equivalent to 75W would give you both
the lumens you want, and plenty of safety margin.
A lot. When we bought our current home, I had to replace all of the light
fixtures in the kitchen
because the previous owners had done exactly that: put 75W bulbs in fixtures
labeled "60W max". When I took the fixtures down to paint the ceiling, I
discovered that the
excess heat had made the insulation on the fixture wires brittle and hard to the
cracking and falling off of the conductors. One fixture had an inch and a half
On Fri, 25 Jan 2013 11:58:14 +0000 (UTC), Doug Miller
How did you fix that? Just curious.
I've run across many like that, and I always tried to replace the whole
cable. But thats not always possible without ripping apart the whole
house. Other times I had to put an extra box inh the attic and run a
few feet of new wire. I've seen lots of guys just tape up those cracked
wires, but that's not the best fix. I found another method. Put heat
shrink tubing ovet the wires. That works wonders and is easy to do.
However if it's the old BX and the wires are cracked right up to the
metal sheath, you will likely have problems. You're stuck replacing
*I have seen many overheated light fixtures over the years. Most of them
don't start a fire unless they are in close proximity to combustible
materials such as curtains or furniture. What usually happens over time is
the lamp socket get brittle and cracks, the insulation on the wire gets
brittle and cracks and eventually sparks fly out and then I get a call.
The 75 watt bulb that you have in the light looks as though it might be a
halogen bulb which gets very hot. I would try a 50 watt PAR 20 bulb. It is
a small halogen floodlight (Actually they come in flood or spot) and puts
out about the same amount of light as a 75 watt incandescent bulb.
If the desk lamp also has a UL or CSA sticker, then a 60 watt bulb was used
to test and approve the fixture for electrical and fire safety. Using a 75
watt bulb voids that listing. If you were to have a fire that was traced to
the desk lamp and if the fire inspector determined that you had
over-wattaged the lamp, then your fire insurance could be disallowed.
That's not very likely, of course, but it has happened. As others have
mentioned, using a 50 watt halogen PAR 20 might work for you as will using a
CFL or LED bulb, but compare the light output values (lumens). Don't go
just by the "wattage equivalent" charts.
Makes sense. But doesn't answer the question.
Seems to me bridges are designed to hold twice what they
say they can hold. Elevators are the same. A room placard that
says a ballroom can legally hold 100 people can 'fit' twice
that easily. Speed limits are set but we routinely go twice
the speed limit safely (maybe not twice - but the point is the
same). A rope rated for 100 pounds can handle ten times that.
It seems, to me, a lamp rated at 60 watts must have been
tested at twice that (or some large number like that) in order
to get the rating.
At least that's how 'other' ratings seem to be done.
It isn't that a slightly higher wattage bulb will immediately cause a fire
or electrical hazard. That will happen over time due to deteriorated
wiring, insulation or structural parts. There are tolerances and variations
that are considered in the UL/CSA tests; but it's a pass/fail system so
electrical inspectors and fire safety people know what to do.
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