Get a gizmo called "Kill-A-Watt" and discover how much power your fridge
draws when it kicks in.
Further, most generators are rated "xxxx/yyyySurge" where "surge" is the
power available for a short period.
Using a device called watts-up (similar to kill-a-watt), I measured my
refrigerator to draw 23 A when the compressor kicks in. However I don't know
how fast this device samples the current. So there may be a spike higher
Adding some inductor and capacitor may help damp this spike.
Thanks to all. Yes, it seems like it won't handle it very well, and I
sure don't want to hurt the fridge. I called Fridgedair and they said
1800 watt minimum.
It was one of my more stupid impluse buys. I checked with Home Depot,
Lowes, the local hardware store, Sears, PC Richard, and Best Buy
before giving up on actually finding a relatively inexpensive (<$300)
Then I saw an online ad for a ETQ type cheapo and the reviews said
that it handled a fridge with no problem so I just ordered it ($130).
It's due to arrive tomorrow.
Then, of course, I see that my local National Wholesale Liquidator has
a 3300 watt for $288. Worse, PepBoys has an ad for a 3500 for $240.
Both made in China of course but they certainly look like they'll do
the job. No Honda for sure, but I'm not planning on running it very
So I bought the PepBoys one, and I know that will handle the fridge
and the boiler, which are the two things that I really want it for.
And the computer of course.
Either I return the 1000 or I give it as a gift to folks who go
camping, or maybe I can use it for something else, like lending it to
a neighbor during a blackout. Maybe it will run their fridge.
1800W 16 cu ft , I say BS. You didnt test it , a Clamp On Amp Meter
or Kill-A-Watt is 35$ or less and will show you whats really up. None
of my old friges wont start with a 1000w gen, normal running about
350-400w and with defroster on about 6-700. Newer units of the last 15
years run on 120-300w and im talking about 19.5cu up to big double
door units that I have, so I dont believe tech support for your little
16cu ft unit. Why not test it for yourself, you need a good clamp on
amp meter any way to properly know how to safely power any gen. But
you have a bigger problem, you are buying the cheapest stuff you can
and will have issues keeping 3600rpm = 60hz-120v, and those cheapest
units are not honestly rated. but this is another discussion.
I would agree with you two gentlemen as well. So does "generator
Scan down to the refrigerator section. It shows a typical fridge
pulling 13 amps for .1 secs at startup, then declining rapidly to
close to it's 3 amp running current by .5 secs. In other words,
while it does take a hefty current of 4X, it only lasts a half
second. In fact, that fridge graph shows that the current is within
the 1000W generator rating in a quarter of a second.
While we don't know for sure, it sounds like that generator is rated
at 1000W operating. If so, one would think that it should be able to
supply 50% more current for a quarter of a second.
The other issue is if it's an automatic defrost model, you have the
defrost heater current when it comes on. According to Wikipedia,
that's about 400W.
As usual, Google is your friend.
The only thing that doesn't make sense to me is in that same link
above, they have a chart of starting WATTS vs running for a variety of
motors, including refrigerators. On that chart, it shows the
starting watts of all the motors to be only marginally higher than the
running watts. Yet, their chart in amps for the fridge and various
other motors, shows the amps being way higher, which I think we all
agree is the correct picture. The only two things I can think of to
account for this apparent disparity is:
1 - They probably measured the starting Watts over some more
substantial time period, ie 1 sec.
2 - Part of it is that because of reactance the voltage and current
are not in phase.
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 11:53:24 -0800 (PST), Eric in North TX
That's true. But two or three days without TV? Hmm. Actually, I rarely
turn on the TV during the week unless a sport event that I care about
Anyway, the generator arrived, and is very cute, and the instructions
say not to use it with TV, computers, etc. I was going to just return
it (since I already bought at 3500 watt China special) but it would
cost around $30 just to FedEx it back. So I'll keep it.
Recently I bought an electric (13.5 amp Snow Joe) snow blower. My
property is pretty small so a 50 foot cord from the outside receptacle
would be sufficient and was what I had planned. But, the generator is
light enough that I can actually do the sidewalk down the block for
some of my neighbors. It's almost, but not quite, the same as having
the gas snow blower. Not as strong of course.
On Sun, 5 Dec 2010 05:17:50 -0800 (PST), Michael B
I think you are overreacting to the sensitive electronics issue.
The furnace is going to use the 24v from the control transformer and
that will largely filter out the noise from a generator.
It is rectified to DC and filtered before the chips see it anyway.
The PC is even more robust. The switching power supply immediately
converts the input to 160vdc or so, then chops that up into 20khz or
so to be broken out as the various voltages the PC uses. These are
fairly "wide mouth" supplies that will run on a very wide range of
voltages and frequencies.
All the noise you will see is coming from the power supply itself.
If you don't open the door to much the food will stay cold for hours.
In the winter throw your food in the snow.
Summer---- cook out time !!!!
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