I had one given to me, will not heat above 55 degrees. looking for any
info. It is 240 volt, 20.8 amp, 5000 watt, and I have the letters UHG5N.
Thanx for any help.
Assuming you have 240 volts reaching the heater, and it appears to be
running correctly, my next guess would be the space you are trying to heat.
The typical recommendation is about 10 watts per square foot, with average
insulation and 8' ceilings. In other words, your 5000 watt heater should be
able to heat a space up to 500 sq/ft.
If you are heating a larger space, and/or the walls, doors, and ceiling
have little or no insulation, and/or it has higher ceilings, the building
will lose heat faster than your heater can warm it up.
I have a 4000 watt "Hot One" heater for my 24'x28' garage (10 foot
ceilings). The walls and ceiling are insulated with R19. When I bought my
heater the stairway to the (insulated) attic was open. My 672 sq/ft garage
is already beyond the "10 watts per sq/ft" guideline, but with the open
stairway even more heat was lost into the attic. I could run the heater
all day long and it would only raise the temperature about a degree or two.
A couple years later, I closed off the attic stair and added a door, and my
4000 watt heater will now heat my garage, but just barely. It takes hours
to heat up the garage to 65-70 degrees, and runs nearly full time to do so.
Based on my square footage and higher ceilings, I would probably need
around 7000-8000 watts to heat it properly. But, I don't work in the
garage too often during colder weather, so I'm able to get by with my small
4000 watt heater.
On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 00:20:14 +0000, ireikit wrote:
Hmm, I have an old singer UHS-5 which I think is 5KW too (assuming you
mean 5KW - your subject says 500W??) - maybe there's some commonality
between them. Mine has three internal heating elements, so if yours is
similar them maybe one of yours has gone open-circuit.
My heater had a schematic kicking around in the bottom of the case (yeah,
a sheet of paper knocking around in something that gets rather hot - I
suspect it was originally glued :-) and maybe yours does too which might
be useful - not that the wiring is exactly complex (but there are a
couple of thermal cut-outs on mine and a delay on the fan motor).
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