Need to paint the interior of my garage. Thinking of an Eggshell since it can be washed. Was overwhelmed at Home Depot with all the paint and could not get a good answer at the store. Any help here as to what would be a good quality paint for this purpose?
Why reward Home Depot with your business when they were unable to earn it? Open your yellow pages phone book and find a paint specialty store that sells Devoe or Martin-Senour paint. You'll be impressed with the quality, and you'll only have to paint once, assuming the surface is in good shape, and primed if necessary.
I'm thinking eggshell is _not_ the finish of choice for a garage, particularly if you want washable. A semigloss latex enamel would best compromise, probably, between durability and cost. One assumes you're not looking for the highest cost/quality product for a garage.
For the lesser-priced, I have really been pleased w/ the Glidden (which I think HD carries as well as Behr and some others). It's the prime choice at the local lumberyard and I bought some for a work/change room in the basement simply for convenience a couple of years ago. Very good covering, ease of application and durability has also been very good...
Then why even consider giving them your business? Why not go to a real paint store where they have quality paint and people who know something about it?
I would look for a Bathroom - Kitchen paint. We did a bathroom a few years ago and bought the paint from WalMart. Cheap paint, but frankly it did a great job. Can't remember the name on it, I think it may have been their brand name and by now they have likely changed supplies and formulas three times.
Hi Albert, I've been buying Behr paint at Home Depot for years. It's very affordable, durable and flows nicely. Easy to work with paint with a long lasting finish. For your garage I would recommend a satin/eggshell. It will have a low sheen but still be very washable. Usually their paint department is very helpful and knowledgable. You may have hit an off day.
Remember, prep is the most inportant part. If you are going over fresh sheetrock, be sure to use a good primer like Kilz. In the garage, it might not hurt to to it that way regardless. Scuff the walls with a 200 grit sandpaper, being sure to get in the edges good and tight and just lightly hit the walls to give the paint and primer a good surface to adhere to. Best of luck to you. I have FINALLY finished (I hope) my paint work at this house for awhile... I never thought I would say "I am SO sick of painting!" LOL
This isn't necessary. Especially the sanding - "scuffing" drywall isn't a good idea. And Kilz isn't necessary either. There really isn't much good reason not to simply put on 2 coats of whatever finish paint you want, assuming it's of good quality with a decent amount of solids in it.
Eggshell/satin is fine. Semi-gloss is more washable, so it's a question of how dirty you think it'll get vs. your preference for sheen. I dislike high sheen walls.
Sorry Jeff.. but I have to disagree with you on a large scale here. I admit, I did not see that he was painting fresh drywall until I read a little lower in the thread BUT I still stand on what I said.
We bought this house 3 1/2 years ago.. I had to remove layers of wallpaper and then it was time to paint. They had not primed the walls prior to painting and it has been an absolute nightmare in each and every room. I'll tell you what happens when you DON'T prime over fresh sheetrock:
The paint peels off of the joint compound any time you put masking tape on it.. say for doing trim. Yes, a pro can cut in with a brush, and I'm pretty doggone good at it BUT there are just times when it's faster and cleaner to mask the edges off. It is an unstable, dusty type of surface (even when you wipe it with a damp cloth first) and paint simply does not adhere to it properly. A coat of Kilz will help block mildew and will seal the surface so that if he later decides to do something else the paint is firmly stuck to the walls and he won't spend days and weeks like we did patching and smoothing the places where the GD paint peeled off at the joints and seams - ceiling line - along door jambs - corners and so on.
On another note, I say if you get pre-primed molding, do the same thing, sand it and prime it before you paint it. If the primer that's on it is cheap, you'll have a problem with it peeling then too... Go on ahead.. ask me how I know this. I'll show you the callouses from fixing this mess.
Kate O|||||||O
This isn't necessary. Especially the sanding - "scuffing" drywall isn't a good idea. And Kilz isn't necessary either. There really isn't much good reason not to simply put on 2 coats of whatever finish paint you want, assuming it's of good quality with a decent amount of solids in it.
I agree on the scuffing but proper primer is the most important part of any paint job. For sheetrock I like the drywall primer made by Sherwin-Williams. It has much better hiding than the big box paint. We did a couple rooms of new drywall and the primer actually looked like the finish coat. We ran out and I went to the big box store and asked for the best primer they had. They sold me Behr something or other. It was more expensive that the Sherwin-Williams paint and was much thinner/watered down and had nowhere near the hiding power.
I used Glidden "flat" latex in my garage. I think the color was "antique white". It's one of their standard premixed colors. Makes for a quicker trip in and out of the home center. :)
I keep seeing "washable" mentioned. I've never had any problems wiping spots off the paint, but I don't make a habit of washing down the walls in my garage. But flat paint seems just as washable as paints with more sheen.
If you're painting over new drywall, wipe down the dust then paint on a PVA primer, and follow with one or two coats of your final paint color.
If you're painting over an existing finish, wash down the walls with a TSP solution first. This will remove dirt, oils, etc., and prep the surface for the new coat of paint. Then apply your paint after it dries.
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