My mechanic likes to use Castrol extended and change oil every 5000 miles. I have alway s used Pennzoil 10/30 and changed oil every 3000 miles. which one is right? Or both of us right? Whaddaya think guys?
If you use penzoil, change every 3000. Same with Quaker State.
Using a more highly refined oil with less parafins (Like Castrol GTX)
go 5000. Or use synthetic and go 10,000.
Really - it's not just mileage - it's how the miles are put on - short
trips, high temperaturs, al kinds of things come into play.
On 6/16/2019 7:58 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I think Pennzoil will gunk up your engine with paraffin deposits . I
use Castrol GTX in all my bikes and automobiles and change it every 5-6
thousand miles . Injected motors burn so much cleaner than carbed motors
that I think they can go longer between changes . I also use Wix filters
, best filter on the market IMO .
I use either NAPA Gold or Wix depending on where I buy the filter. I've
been told Wix makes the NAPA filter. My preference has a lot to do with
the threading. The base of Wix filters is punched and threaded into the
body of the filter and I find it easier to start than the brands that
are punched outward, if that makes any sense.
Makes sense to me . In fact , Wix makes NAPA Gold filters . IIRC the
Wix number for your Evo (and some Shovelheads) is a 51215 , the NAPA
Gold is 1215 . Back around 1999 or so some guys on the XL-List cut up a
bunch of filters to see how they compared . Fram was the cheesiest with
the least and thinnest filtration medium . Wix won over all , and I
haven't used anything else since .
Throughout the years, I have often seen comparison videos of oil filters
and Fram continuously ends up at the bottom. Wix, Mobile 1, Bosch,
Purolater usually on top as well as a few others depending who's doing
the test and what model filter.
But have you ever seen any actual performance tests that indicate the
visual comparisons have any relevance to actual filtration performance
and resultant demonstrably better engine performance in terms of fewer
oil contamination or other failures even remotely that could be
demonstrated as owing to the filter?
Oil related engine failures are so rare it would be hard to really
make any kind of comparison. I know people, mostly single mom types,
who never change their oil and they end up throwing the car away for
things other than an engine failure. The oil looks like tar but it
still seems to be working.
Yeah, the mechanic who did the rego check did say that
someone had blown up their Getz engine that way but it
wasn’t clear if that was just running out of oil completely.
I did find mine had an odd clicking noise at idle at 3OK with
no oil or filter change that went away with an oil and filter
change. Didn’t bother to check if it was the oil or the filter.
I did that with my 73 Golf. Still have it but stopped using it
when the known windscreen leak produced a rusted floor
that meant it could no longer be registered and I couldn’t
be arsed fixing it after 45 years.
Mine didn’t, but the Golf did use some oil.
Yeah, mine was working fine, no smoky exhaust or anything.
None and I highly doubt a filter will cause major damage to an engine.
The exception is installing the wrong size filter and it comes off while
driving, thus, all oil poured out and the engine seized. Yes, I know
someone who had it happen.
The only REAL problem with some filters is the filtration media
"splits" or comes loose from the endcaps - or drainback valves leak or
come apart - or cans leak - or the "base gaskets" don't properly seal
against the mount so they ALWAYS leak.
There ARE better quality filters than the base fram orange can
filters - the extraguard and synthetic Fram's being 2 of several.
There may be getter filters available than a WIX - but not many
applications where the "better" filter would have any effect under
I'm going back to using Frams on my 13 year old Ranger with 368000km
on it - with synthetic oil changed twice a year. The oil AND filter
are still "clean" at these intervals (works out to about 6000km per
change) so why do I need anything "better"??
On Sunday, June 16, 2019 at 2:28:41 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
Same question as to changing oil at 3,000 vs 5,000. I didn't think any
new cars were less than 5K today. I'd like to see any studies that show
3K vs 5K or similar has any real effect on any engine problems in the
typical life of a car. Meaning, if you have a car, change the oil every
5K, get rid of it at 150K is there any evidence that a failure occurred
that would not have if you changed it at 3K? Or even if you keep the
car to 250K, does it really make a difference or is it just money down
the train to change it more often?
My car is 7500 miles for normal driving. The warranty is for 100,000
miles. They would not offer the warranty if they did not think it would
make it that far.
I imagine testing of some sort was done to conclude that
Except for Harley... Never, never use synthetic oil. Last time I was at
the dealers it was hard to find anything other than synthetic. Of course
it's extra special H-D synthetic. Sport-Trans has went the way of the
After I use up my stash of special Suzuki and Harley lubricants they'll
all get Rotella and like it. The V-Strom already is there.
I knew a few that worked at a WIX filter factory. They made filters for
several brands. Some were the same with a different paint job and some
were different internally.
My son worked for Lance ( a snack food company). They had a product
similar to Oreo cookies. When the Oreo company could not make enough
Oreos, Lance would make the cookies for them.
Lots of companies sell either the very same or similar items made at one
factory. Sometimes the product is the same , sometimes it is slightly
different and not the same quality.
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