If you can't see them and don' tknow where to find the information, I do
have a suggestion. Take it to a reputable shop and pay to have them do
it. Safer, easier, keeps your hands clean.
Last change I did was my '91 Buick Regal. What a PITA to get tot he
filter. Worth the $20 to let a shop do it on the lift.
I agree with Ed P, but with a twist...
Go to Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire and buy the oil and filter you need for
your car. Then go to any of these quick oil change places, and most of
them will change your oil for $20 if you provide the oil and filter.
I changed the oil in my own car for decades, but as I get older, I find
the $20 it costs me once every 3 or 4 months just isn't worth the hassle
of having to crawl under the car and clean up everything with solvent
after wards and having to wait till it gets dark and dumping my old oil
in the river, and all of that hassle.
If you still want to do it yourself, the oil drain plug SHOULD be at the
bottom of the oil pan which is located directly under the engine.
The oil filter could be anywhere on the engine. Nowadays it's often
inaccessable from above and you have to get at it from below, and that
generally means raising the car on a hoise to have good access to it.
Why would you take your own oil and filter to an oil change place? You
are then paying double (if they will even use your oil and filter).
I can get my oil changed at a Havoline xpress lube for $22.00 (taxes
included) or I can buy 5 qts of oil and a filter for $22.00 plus tax and
do it myself. Unless the price of oil drops drastically my days of doing
my own oil changes are over.
On 11/24/2013 10:10 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
30 years ago? In 1983 I could change my own oil for about $5.00.
Thinking back that far I believe getting it changed was around $12.00 or
For some reason the price of getting your oil changed has dropped in the
past 2-3 years. It used to be $25.00-$30.00, and it was still cheaper to
do it yourself. Now that oil is $3.25 + a qt plus the filter, it's
cheaper to have it done.
Buck or a bit more per quart, times five plus a $5 filter was ten or
eleven bucks. I could get it changed for fifteen. $20, as late as
2006. Then I have to do something with the used oil. Yep, too much
bother for *no* gain.
If your vehicle requires a special oil - RTFM.
API certified, 5W20 or 5W30, meets Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395.
The last is the kicker; most quick change places won't bother to find
out whether their bulk oil will meet that spec or not; they don't make
*any* money on a $20 oil change to begin with, as you know as well as I
do that you can't do an oil change on anything yourself for much less
than that, and any savings that the shop has by buying materials in bulk
is promptly eaten up and then some by simply paying a guy to do the
work. Now using a non-spec-compliant oil is probably irrelevant in the
grand scheme of things if they're using a quality, name-brand oil, but
if you have a warranty issue with engine internals and Mother MoPar can
prove that you didn't use a MS-6395 certified oil, well... you know.
Now one place that I know of uses Valvoline, and it looks like all the
oils they carry meet MS-6395 (but if you use conventional, the 5W20 does
NOT meet the Chrysler spec - only the 5W30 does. So to remain in
compliance you'd need to know that.)
It gets worse if you have a newer GM vehicle requiring Dexos 1 or Dexos
2... and pretty much all the Euro mfgrs. require full synthetic now.
If you find anyone that will do one of those oil changes for $20, send
me their contact info before they go out of business (which they will soon.)
That's true; see above. The whole point of a $20 oil change is for them
to get your vehicle up on a lift and try to upsell you on something.
That can be good or bad; good if they really do a thorough vehicle
inspection and find something you legitimately need and of which you
weren't aware; bad and annoying if they just automatically start pushing
fuel system cleaners and the like.
The good news is that you might want to bring your own filter (although
probably not necessary *unless* your quick lube place uses Fram, in
which case I definitely *would*) but it looks like all the various
grades of Havoline *do* meet MS-6395.
Finally, you may want to see what your local dealer's prices for an oil
change are. I was pleasantly surprised when I asked about a BMW oil
change; they have some surprisingly competitive prices on things like
oil changes and brake jobs, their waiting room is nicer than the
quick-lube places and the coffee is better too, and then you have an
iron clad service history if you have a warranty issue or need to sell
the vehicle. Even if they're a little higher than the quick lube place,
they may be less expensive than buying your own materials and paying the
quick lube guy to change the oil for you.
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
I'll bet a lot of us caught it and ignored it. I did because I didn't it
believe it to be true.
Same for the response that was related to straddling a creek with the
vehicle and draining directly into the water.
On Friday, November 22, 2013 1:04:59 PM UTC-5, herb white wrote:
oil change. I would like to do it myself but don1t know where the drain an
d filter are. thanks for any help===herb
It's good to know how to do things like that for yourself. I did my own oil
changes for years until I got too old and fat to get under the car. Do you
have any friends who change their own oil? If so, ask one of them to show
you how it's done the first time. I haven't had a Dodge for a long time but
back in the 60's their engines were hard to work on; stuff was inconvenien
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.