Type of oil

Yiou haven't been reading the automotive press - pbviously.

EVERY ONE of the "coking" failures, whether Chrysler, VW, Toyota, or who-ever is a "lubrication related failure" - and virtually NONE of them occured on a vehicle following the "severe service" oil change specification.

A single oil analysis means NOTHING. You need to do them at regular intervals to determine trends. When does metal contamination start to accellerate? What about acid levels?. As soon as you find out where the metal contaminatio nstarts you know the oil SHOULD have been changed earlier. Same with the acids, and other "bad" stuff.

Once you have the trends you adjust your changes accordingly and reduce your monitoring to the later stages.

Not nearly as muchas going 10000 when you SHOULD have changed it at

Gasoline and oil are the 2 cheapest things you will put into your engine - - - - - -

I didn't bother for 30K

With my 73 Golf, I never bothered to change it at all in 45 years.

The only REAL problem with some filters is the filtration media "splits" or comes loose from the endcaps - or drainback valves leak or come apart - or cans leak - or the "base gaskets" don't properly seal against the mount so they ALWAYS leak.

There ARE better quality filters than the base fram orange can filters - the extraguard and synthetic Fram's being 2 of several.

There may be getter filters available than a WIX - but not many applications where the "better" filter would have any effect under normal use.

I'm going back to using Frams on my 13 year old Ranger with 368000km on it - with synthetic oil changed twice a year. The oil AND filter are still "clean" at these intervals (works out to about 6000km per change) so why do I need anything "better"??

Yeah, the mechanic who did the rego check did say that someone had blown up their Getz engine that way but it wasn’t clear if that was just running out of oil completely.

I did find mine had an odd clicking noise at idle at 3OK with no oil or filter change that went away with an oil and filter change. Didn’t bother to check if it was the oil or the filter.

I did that with my 73 Golf. Still have it but stopped using it when the known windscreen leak produced a rusted floor that meant it could no longer be registered and I couldn’t be arsed fixing it after 45 years.

Mine didn’t, but the Golf did use some oil.

Yeah, mine was working fine, no smoky exhaust or anything.

Same question as to changing oil at 3,000 vs 5,000. I didn't think any new cars were less than 5K today. I'd like to see any studies that show

Doesn't sound like 2x to me. Cars were at 5K intervals with regular oil. Even BMW went to 15K with synthetic, thought they must have seen some problems because they backed off to 10K. If you only get 6K on synthetic, something doesn't sound right.

My car is 7500 miles for normal driving. The warranty is for 100,000 miles. They would not offer the warranty if they did not think it would make it that far.

I imagine testing of some sort was done to conclude that

Not with modern engines that require nothing else before you replace the car for other reasons.

I wouldn't call it dirty but it is convenient when you can see the oil on the dipstick. Brand new 5W-30 squirrel piss doesn't stand out well.

That's been my theory.

My Toyota manual is pretty boring. Every 5000 miles change the oil, replace the filter, and rotate the tires. I cheat on the latter since I have a separate set of studs so they get rotated twice a year, Thanksgiving weekend and whenever it thaws out.

I did notice from my log that this year was the latest I've went back to summer tires. Global warming, dontcha know.

Don't put the oil in and see what a rebuild costs - - - - -

Real Harleys didn't have oil filters.

I never even heard of a coking failure but I do know a lot of old cars that were still driving around with 200,000 miles on them and maybe a total of 10 oil changes. My daughter had one. It was sold running but the body was so rusted out, and the interior trashed so badly, I only got $900. The guy did start it up and drive it away tho. (1989 Accord in 2001). My sister and 2 other ladies I know had the same philosophy. Put gas in it and drive.

It's what killed so many chrysler v6 2.7 engines. Also gave VW

OLD cars were not as sensitive to it as the "newer" engines - nineties and early two thousands.

Oil changed by the severe usage cycle, and particularly those running synthetic oil changed regularly, did NOT have the problems A local chrysler mechanic said he never saw a 2.7 fail "when properly maintained" and they replaced TONS of them. The Toyota dealer said the same. They had NO failures among their customers who followed THEIR recommendation - "follow the extreme use schedule" - or those running synthetic oil on the regular cycle.

VW owners using synthetic oil had a lot fewer problems as well.

Going back to the 2.6 liter MitsuShitty engines Chrysler used in the K and C series, and mini-vans the 6 foot long timing chains didn't rattle and the balance shafts didn't sieze either if the oil was changed often,

At a certain point they are selling an oil change at a dealer, hoping they can up sell you something else. That is what the Lincoln dealer guy told me when I asked why they were giving out "free oil change" chits, pretty much for the asking. I know every time I cashed one they gave me a list of things I should have them do for me, at a price. On the "free oil change" you just get oil and a filter. If you pay them $40 for the oil change package, you get a top up on all of the other fluids and inspections of other things, they will be happy to replace for a nominal charge, like a $20 set of wiper blades (3). It is real easy to have a $40 oil change being more like $100 by the time you get to the cashier if you just say yes a lot.

BMW is a whole other thing. It means Bring More Wampum. A f****ng battery can cost you $500 by the time you get out the door. .

I did that with a 73 Golf which I drove for 45 years and it didn't ever cost a cent to have the engine rebuilt.