Stump removal w Hammer Drill

Use a disposable blade, and probably a disposable saw. I wouldn't try to do all the work with the saw. Checkerboard the top with it, and then use a wedge and a maul to widen the cracks. That will promote rot, and maybe split it up enough that you can use a jack and a chain to pull it out a chunk at a time, like a dentist with an impacted tooth.

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Reply to
aemeijers
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There is a product that you can pour on it that rots the stump out. Dont remember what it is. Just use Google. Ive also heard of some of the country fellows drilling several holes in then and pouring kerosene and oil in them. Let it soak in for a few days and then light it. Not a good idea though if you live in the city limits. Bubba

Reply to
Bubba

Yes, it will. Also the circle saw doesn't make a deep enough cut. The last time I took out a tree, I needed all the length of blade I could get.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Saltpetre, its a strong oxidizer that breaks down the wood. I works but results are slow. I saw my dad do it years ago and think it took a couple of years.

Jimmie

Reply to
JIMMIE

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote in news:de581ce3-8fdf-49f5-8097-88472f2da354 @g3g2000pre.googlegroups.com:

Drill a hole in it and pound in some McD's "food". That outta start some rapid rotting action.

Reply to
Red Green

Saltpetre has potassium and nitrogen that are good nutrients. You also want phosphate. Bird crap could be used as a source. Do not expect a quick result. In my experience, it has required two or three years before I was eager to attack the residue.

Reply to
Clot

OK the stump has been removed. Here is what I did:

Used a circular saw to cut a checkerboard pattern in the top surface. Blade depth about 2-3 inches. Then I took a BFH to it and pounded out the squares. Repeat. When I got low enough, I used a sawzall to cut the remaining roots. Worked very well.

Tim

Reply to
rminv

replying to rminv, Ed the red wrote: Sorry, the circular will offer only minimal success. Yes, you can saw to a shallow depth providing the stump wood is dry. The saw binds up in wet wood. The dirt will dull the blade. Unless you have any he patience of Job and his entire family, better count on your great grandchildren finishing the job.

Saws-all , axe, mattock, & shovel. The is no easy manual way.

Reply to
Ed the red

High pressure water blaster . Straight nozzle , not fan . Cuts wood like buttah . Messy though .

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Fire line explosives...

Reply to
rbowman

  250 grain/foot primacord maybe ?
Reply to
Terry Coombs

That's the stuff. Insta-Trail.

Reply to
rbowman

What's that light duty explosive that shooters use on their targets when they're hundreds of feet away to give them a very visible and audible sign they've aimed correctly?

Reply to
danny burstein

Tannerite ?

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Ah, that's it. Thanks.

Reply to
danny burstein

replying to Jim Elbrecht, mi-matt wrote: I have thought about doing this exact thing as far as an improvement over what I do today. I shovel and axe one side of the tree roots and use a comealong to pull from another tree base. This uses the weight of the tree as it comes down as leverage as I cut more roots. usually comes over slowly. Axing the roots is the worst part so I was considering the bosch. I like the fact that it pulled the roots out with the tree. I have had 3 larger tree where the person left the wire basket when planting it 30 years ago and the dam thing is still in tack. Makes axing a pain. thought about adding a small winch with remote to make easier. You get faster and better after doing this a couple times.

Reply to
mi-matt

replying to Jim Elbrecht, mi-matt wrote: bosch came out with cordless version at $200 called the bulldog!

Reply to
mi-matt

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