It was a rental, but I put in a grab bar for my 80-year old mother, at
the entrance to the bathtub, iirc.
Not in the tile but the stud just outside it. I wanted to be positive
it didn't come out when she pulled on it. After she died, it took a
long time to get the screws out. I had to push and twist and I damaged
the slot, but I did get it without special tools. I guess I woudl have
used a bit a 32" or even a 16th" size bigger if I'd known, but better
safe than sorry.
I continued to pay the rent until I moved everything out and cleaned the
place up, but one month I didn't tell them in a timely manner and they
rented her appartment to someone else. When I found out they said, No
Problem. We'll tell the new tenants it's not available after all and
push them into aother apartment. And they did. One time I was there
on a Saturday night and one of the other five apartments was having a
party. A black woman came down and looked and I sold her my mother's
whole bedroom suite for 50 dollars. It was the last thing keeping me
from moving out. Soldi mahogany, matching end tables, dresser, chest,
and two single beds hinged on the outside to the same backboard. I
don't think they made king size mattresses in 1945. Now it was 1996.
She knew she was getting a bargain -- it was still in very good
condition and any flaws couold probably have been repaired. nd was very
> impact driver recently when the shop foreman at my friend's shop came to
> my rescue when I busted my last #3 phillips bit (I didn't have my snap
> on set with me so I was using a less expensive Lisle one) trying to
> remove a stubborn rotor screw with a hand impact.
> ludicrously expensive but whereas the SO hand impact and a hand sledge
> makes an impossible job doable but difficult the shake-n-break made the
> same job trivial.
On the Wivco web site, it says that the Shake-N-Break tool uses 5/16
inch driver bits.
'WIVCO Design - Invents and manufactures body and fender hand tools of
unique design and application (Shake-N-Break)'
The only driver bits I've ever seen are 1/4 inch.
Are 5/16 inch driver bits standared in auto body repair tools, or does
this mean you also have to buy Wivco driver bits to use with their tool?
On Saturday, November 15, 2014 12:17:11 PM UTC-5, nestork wrote:
I dunno... I'm thinking the bits that came with my Lisle set were larger t
han 1/4" though. Maybe they are 5/16". The Snap-On ones are 3/8" square d
rive, they don't use a holder (each bit comes with its own "socket" if you
will.) Don't have the Lisle bits handy to measure, they're at my friend's
I think I've got it figured out.
Screw driver bits that come mounted on a 3/8 inch drive SOCKET will
typically be 5/16 inch hex. I measured some of my 3/8 inch drive Torx
driver bits and they were all 5/16 inch hex. You can pull them out of
their 3/8 inch drive socket and put them into a 5/16 inch 1/4 inch drive
socket for applications where you just don't need as much force.
The removable driver bit in the above socket will fit a 5/16 inch hex
Try E-Z Grip friction drops. You apply a drop of this to the tip of your sc
rewdriver and it greatly increases the gripping power without stripping out
the head of the screw. I've had a bottle of this on the shelf for many yea
rs and it comes in real handy for stuck screws. Also works to increase the
gripping power of a wrench on nuts. I haven't seen it in stores, but it is
They pretty much stopped selling screw on tips, that fit my elements.
In favor of screw-in tips. I stocked up somewhat, plus I have those
two Wens and I think something else. I'd sure hate to have to buy an
expensive iron a month before I die, but otoh, if I had the money, at
that point there'd be no point in saving it.
I just like the word "budget" when I think about stuck screws. I was
kind of fooling about soldering irons, building on Stormy's quote about
a red hot nail.
I've got a couple of the kind of impact drivers you hammer. I remember
one of them once budgeted a #3 Phillips loose on a car door hinge.
Mostly, I believe in long screwdrivers that fit screws just right. In
1972, I was having a lot of trouble with screws that wouldn't budget
because of a reaction between alloys. I bought a 5/16" Bonney flat
blade, 9-1/2" overall, with a square shank. I could apply far more
torque with that than with other screwdrivers. I used a sharpening
stone to maintain a perfect fit.
For tough #2 Phillips, I got a Craftsman, 11-1/2" overall.
For all those other kinds of screw heads, I've got one kit with 32
assorted bits and another with 24. They didn't cost much. I can usually
find a perfect fit, and there's an extension. A long shaft helps me
keep everything straight and apply a lot of pressure as well as torque.
Besides preventing slips, pressure can ease the tension on the threads.
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