splicing a spliced cable line

You don't splice cable line. You connect separate pieces using the connectors. If you need to SPLIT one, you use a splitter box.

Two-way splitters cause a 3 dB loss (the power is cut in half for each circuit ... actually it is a little more since splitters are not perfect). Ganging splitters adds another 3 dB loss for each 1 to two split. Some cable companies provide a rather robust signal and multiple splitting (within reason) is not a problem. Others provide a marginal signal and even one splitter shows up as a noisy signal (grainy looking picture). Splitters are cheap ... just go ahead and try it.

Do I lose more by buying one 8-way splitter than using a two-way splitter? Or is it the same 3db loss between all these?

As far as I know, the difference is small (with quality splitters).

Thanks guys, I'll go ahead and get an 8-way and give it a try. Can I use the crimp type connectors without a special tool? I'm seeing "compression type" which our cable company uses, and I don't ahve one of those tools. I do have a simple solderless-terminal crimper that may work to crimp type connectors.

Do they make one that works better than the crimp type, like one that I can just screw together or something, there won't be much opportunity to pull on these lines as they'll be in the wall.

The solderless terminal crimper will not work correctly, although you lose nothing but an inch of cable to prove this to yourself. Go buy the right tool to do the job the way the cable company did it.

By the way, Home Depot carries the right tool. Not expensive.

Your cable company will change out your splitter. Cheap is not better in this case. Something compatible with the cable company is best.

One splice is not terrible, the more you go the faster you will drop signal.

-- Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

It's best to only split once. Find where the cable is initially split where it enters the house and replace the three way with a four way. Downside is that it means running a cable all the way from the cable box to the new TV. There are also some cheap amplified splitters. I had good results with an RCA amplified splitter I got from home depot.

Do *not* get a splitter with more ports than you need. Every split (one to two) looses 3.5db of signal to each output port whether you have something connected or not.

There is commonly only a one to two splitter, so every larger splitter is just a collection of two way splits internally.

Splitter losses:

3 way = two 7db loss ports and one 3.5db loss port

8 way = eight 14db loss ports

Unused ports should be terminated with 75ohm terminators. Open ports are a source of both signal leakage which can interfere with over the air signals including police radios and air traffic control, and also ingress where these over the air signals can get into the cable and interfere with the cable signal. Cable companies are required to periodically survey their entire systems and certify compliance with maximum leakage limits imposed by the FCC.

Improperly connections such as twist on or set screw F connectors or improperly done crimp or compression F connectors will also cause problems. These connections are more sensitive than most people think, and they are only becoming more sensitive as cable systems expand to higher frequencies.

There is also signal strength loss from every connector, ground block, etc. in the system (insertion loss) and loss from every foot of coax cable. Don't have any more connections than you need or any large excess of cable in your setup if you want the best signal.

The total signal loss is important in the "forward" direction (from the cable Co. to you) and even more important in the "reverse" direction (from you to the cable Co.) if you use things like a cable modem or pay per view from a two way cable box.

Pete C. (Used to work for Cox cable)

Forgot to mention:

You also need to make sure the splitters you use are rated for the frequencies in use in the cable system. These days it's safest to assume systems are up to 1GHz so you need a 1GHz rated splitter. An old 750MHz rated splitter will work for some channels, but you will loose others that are at higher frequencies because the splitter can't handle them without substantial attenuation.

Cheap splitters also have poor shielding which can cause leakage and ingress problems. The shielding rating is usually stamped on the back of the splitter, 140db is a typical good value for this, less typically means it's a cheap splitter.

Pete C.

Compatible? This isn't an automobile engine being installed. It's just a lousy splitter!

Ain't it amazing how the nit-pickers crawl onto topics like this one?

A splitter is a low-cost experiment (with no dangerous side issues). Just try it!

I was amazed to learn a "dumb" splitter can go bad. Compatible, I mean what the cable company uses.

Put a lousy splitter on and they say; "the splitter is the problem".

-- Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

Of course they say that. I have a digital cable Internet connection and when I call for service, the first words out of the technicians mouth are "Have you installed a splitter?" Fie on them!

Here is low-cost. Called the cable company and within an hour they arrived, replaced a problem splitter. No cost, gas, or nit-picking.

-- Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

I usually get something else from them, but it is a 'pat answer".

-- Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

do yourself a favor and buy a signal amplifer. they plug into a regular outlet and boost the cable signal so you don't have to worry about loosing the signal. you run your main cable into (screw on or push on terminal) the amplifer then out to the feed to the rest of the house by way of your splitters.

mike...........