Soil pipe broken at house

[Tekkie©]

I had a blockage last week in the outside soil pipe which was cleared. Camera man came out today and sent me the video. The soil pipe is broken outside just as it exits the house. Says dirt sank and cast iron pipe broke. The kicker is my handicap ramp runs over it... I wonder how much this will cost, they work flat rate around here and are expensive. $600 just to get it cleared in 45 min including travel time. Camera was no cost because they forgot to close the cellar doors and the helper messed up.

As always any ideas, suggestions, tips, appreciated.

[trader_4]

I wonder if there is any chance homeowner's insurance would cover this since it sunk and broke then broke, as opposed to just rusting out, etc.? Plumbers are expensive, if you have a handyman type that you know is good that might be an option. On the other hand, might have to cut the cast iron pipe to be able to Fernco it, I've never done that.

[Ed Pawlowski]

From my experience, the $600 is not uncommon. I had a problem in the last house and paying cash got me a much better deal but was still in the $400 range.

In my case,the joint at a coupling came open a bit. It was in an easy spot and would be in the $2000 range to dig and repair. I had nothing in the way though.

Depending on the exact location and what is next to it, it may be possible to dig next to the ramp and go horizontal to the break and repair.

[Anonymous]

Ask your plumber what is the possibility of a "trenchless" repair, like this:

[gfretwell]

From their docs it appears if this is a "Minor Misalignment" it might work but if this pipe cracked in a few places and dropped an inch, forget it. The money is in the excavation and back fill I would find guys who do that, not a plumber. It isn't rocket science, just digging. (YMMV depending on your "dirt") Putting in 2 flex joints and some pipe is pretty trivial. A battery operated side grinder makes dressing the pipe easy. Then it is a kit. Hose, clamps and an extension pipe, the longer the better to spread out the misalignment. Just be sure they are compacting the back fill as they come up over the pipe in short lifts or you will be back.

[micky]

I've never done this, but rather t han fix that pipe, maybe if you have access to both ends of that pipe, you can disconnect it and run a detour pipe, even if it's longer. If they have to dig up your lawn for the longer pipe, route it so you can plant flowers or bushes, or grass.

[Dean Hoffman]

There's something called pipe bursting which replaces the existing pipe.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 12 Oct 2020 17:18:09 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to digest...

The cast iron pipe is broken right at the flange joint. I believe a Fernco won't work this time.

I didn't think about the insurance aspect.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 12 Oct 2020 21:39:14 -0400, Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us to digest...

The pipe runs perpendicular to the ramp. It is at the bottom of the ramp. I noticed the ramp has dropped along the side of the house. My thought is they could rip 3 to 4 steps off the ramp to get to the break. The 'estimator' comes Friday from the plumbing empire. Come to think of it I have to ask if they charge for the estimate...

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 12 Oct 2020 21:41:38 -0400, "\"Retired"@home.com posted for all of us to digest...

Humm, I will ask, thanks for the suggestion.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 12 Oct 2020 23:56:19 -0400, [e-mail] posted for all of us to digest...

Since the pipe is only about 6" below grade and maybe 6' long I don't think they will need a machine. They can get to the break by removing (I think) 3 or

4 treads of the ramp. Holy cow I just got a call from a recommended guy.

Further news to follow.

[gfretwell]

How can you have a sewer pipe that is only 6" below grade? I thought they needed to be below the frost line. Maybe heaving is what broke it.

[trader_4]

Can't they then just cut off the flange? Like I said previously, I've never cut cast iron pipe, but I've seen it done on TV. They have a tool that's a chain with sharp wheels spaced on it. It get wrapped around the pipe and then tightened until it snaps.

[gfretwell]

A side grinder does just fine. Chalk a line around it so you don't get lost cutting and so you end up back at the same spot. The first couple times I did it was with a diamond blade but it was a tight spot and I didn't want a disk that was wearing down. Cheaper is the abrasive disk but you need good access when it gets smaller. Both times I cut into the pipe here, I kept cutting back to a good spot and replaced it all with PVC and Ferncos. Just use the heavy duty straight coupler, Don't use the really flexible things and no elbows. Do it all in PVC and couple it to the cast on the ends.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2020 18:46:09 -0400, [e-mail] posted for all of us to digest...

I am estimating 6" but is probably deeper. It is definitely not below the frost line. The plumbers have all said this is common in this clay area. Another firm coming in a ? hour. I was told they must visit with the township as to what they can get away with. A straight run or $600 slip joint coupling.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2020 18:46:09 -0400, [e-mail] posted for all of us to digest...

Latest guy just left. He wants to abandon the old pipe and go out the wall that is a 90º right angle to the existing pipe punch a new hole go out make a left turn under the stone driveway and connect to the septic tank. Leave the ramp undisturbed.

[Tekkie©]

On Mon, 19 Oct 2020 16:52:21 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 posted for all of us to digest...

It is broken at the plane of the wall. A pipe snapper wouldn't fit. It is also cemented into the wall.

[dpb]

On 10/20/2020 3:08 PM, Tekkie? wrote: ...

So he wants to add two additional 90-deg bends in the horizontal line? I'd be leery although if were to do it with sweeps or 45's.

Is he making new run to the septic tank as well and abandoning the whole original run? That possibly could work if there's proper fall, altho I'd ask to check if are code limits on those bends.

[dpb]

Well, a little gargling shows concern not unwarranted -- several said to "Never" bury a 90 underground under walks, etc...use 45's with straight sections between or at worst a sweep el.

Did see where says Code requires a cleanout after every 135 degrees of bends...

[dpb]

On 10/20/2020 3:08 PM, Tekkie? wrote: ...

W/O seeing the layout to really know what the situation really is; I'd be most strongly tempted to just replace the section even if I had to move the ramp temporarily...the alternatives just seem too hacky...

--dpb