That's only the "B" part.
There IS another allowed reason.
422.16 Flexible Cords.
(A) General. Flexible cord shall be permitted (1) for the
connection of appliances to facilitate their frequent interchange
or to prevent the transmission of noise or vibration
A power failure every year or less can be considered "frequent
interchange". - if you don't wish to make a case for anti-vibration
(and you do not have a "compliant connection" or whatever you call the
fabric connector on the duct hood.
On 2/3/2012 7:13 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Boy, you are one master of misinterpretation. It's referring to
interchanging the appliance. You don't replace your boiler because of
frequent power failures.
I would love to see you try and run your silly arguments by an
electrical inspector. They'd laugh you right out of the business.
On 2/3/2012 8:25 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
And you determined that from your Ouija board?
You and Evan generalize what is (allegedly) true where you are to the
I agree with RBM.
To take a slightly different approach, use of cords is covered in
article 410. Uses permitted is in 410.7-A. Possibly relevant sections are:
"(6) Connection of utilization equipment to facilitate frequent interchange.
(7) Prevention of the transmission of noise or vibration.
(8) Appliances where the fastening means and mechanical connections are
specifically designed to permit ready removal for maintenance...."
Sections 6 and 8 are not relevant to boilers in the US. You may have to
often replace your boilers (6) or remove them for maintenance in Canada
(7) but it does not happen in the US.
Any competent electrician in the US (don't know about Canada where
electricians "molest" the wiring) can connect a boiler and avoid the
transmission of vibration. There are numerous flexible wiring methods
and our boilers are massive enough not to vibrate.
But if we imported a Canadian boiler that had enough vibration problem
that a flexible cord was need we couldn't connect it with a plug. Plugs
are covered in 410.7-B. Plugs are not permitted for (7) above.
That is consistent with the more limited 422.16 and with what RBM said.
Incidentally, if a receptacle was allowed it wouldn't be a duplex
receptacle which you suggested.
You could also read the comments of gfretwell who basically says it is
(a minor) wrong but he would do it anyway. (Is it any wonder our youth
are in trouble. Where are the role models...)
Google it like I did.
It is being done and passed in Pennsylvania for sure.
You are generalizing about something you apparently don't know any
more about than I do.
Correct. Code DOES say a "dedicated" outlet - which in it's strictest
interpretation is a single outlet. Again - I DID later say I
recommended a 20 amp twist-lock - and every one of THOSE I have run
across recently IS a single outlet.
There is no safety or logical resaon NOT to. I suspect it is a
carry-over from some reason that USED to exist.
On 2/4/2012 3:17 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Anecdotal evidence of "all the time". What a great idea.
Astrology works "all the time".
Like RBM I am commenting on NEC requirements.
Strictest? It is the interpretation that any competent electrician would
Nothing has changed. Cord is tested primarily for flexibility. Tests of,
for instance, romex are much more extensive. Cord is not intended to be
a permanent wiring method and is not allowed "as a substitute for the
fixed wiring of a structure."
RBM provided a connection method that is code compliant. The same method
could be done cheaper if built from parts if you are doing it yourself.
The OP asked about having an electrician do it. An electrician is real
unlikely to wire a cord and plug unless they have cleared their method
with the AHJ. The AHJ is not available.
And in the US a 20A receptacle wired with #12 wire but on a 15A breaker
is a code violation.
This is the code:
Nec 422.16 Flexible cords
(A) General. Flexible cord shall be permitted (1) for the connection of
appliances to facilitate their frequent interchange or to prevent the
transmission of noise or vibration or (2) to facilitate the removal or
disconnection of appliances that are fastened in place, where the
fastening means and mechanical connections are specifically designed to
permit ready removal for maintenance or repair and the appliance is
intended or identified for flexible cord connection.
Nec handbook note: It should be understood that a cord-connected
appliance is required to be specifically designed mechanically and
electrically, to be readily removable for maintenance and repair.
This is the Clare interpretation of the code:
" If you have a "compliant coupling" on the ductwork to eliminate
vibration, the flexible cord is allowed under the code for the same
reason.. Immaterial that the rigid gas line passes vibration to the
house. No inspector can say FOR SURE that the cord is not there for
vibration reasons - and if it is allowed for that purpose there is no
SAFETY reason for denying it - hense the overlooking of the
"infraction" by so many inspectors."
REALY??? (ROFL) Note all the straw men inserted.
The reality is, these things generally do not get inspected since it
happens after the CO but if this was done with the proper cord
connector (not a Romex clamp) and the cord was of appropriate size, an
inspector might hold his nose and walk away from it, only thinking
about the worse alternatives homeowners do like backfeeding dryer
On 2/5/2012 11:53 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I was wondering where you were? I agree, the fact is today, many central
heating systems have some type of Molex quick disconnects for parts of
the system, like the burner or pumps, etc. that do need to be
disconnected for service or repair.
That would be up to the Legislature of whatever state. The NEC
is a legal document that sets up minimum standards. Most of Nebraska is
under the 2011 code now. It's enforced by state inspectors.
Lincoln, Omaha, and a few other towns have their own inspectors and
special rules if they chose.
I do irrigation wiring. The legislature is considering putting us
under the code along with those wiring grain handling equipment.
There hasn't been any inspections of either for years as far as I know.
You don't get sued for not following code, you get sued when it can be
demonstrated that not following code injured someone.
In most states inspectors are covered by sovereign immunity. When you
sue them you are suing the state and all the legal talent they are
willing to bring to bear. YMMV as to how that might go.
On the other hand the CBO or whomever is the designated AHJ can pretty
much decide how his jurisdiction interprets the code and in a lot of
places, what the code actually is.
Florida has a "unified building code" and all AHJs are supposed to be
reading from the same book in each jurisdiction but there are
different "interpretations" of that same code.
On Sun, 05 Feb 2012 15:54:57 -0500, email@example.com wrote:
Many local codes are union driven. Using conduit or BX makes it more
difficult for the DIYer too, thus more work for the union
NYC is a solid union town. We've exhibited at trades shows there and
everything had to be handled by union people. That included plugging
in a lamp into an extension cord.
I hadn't thought of that but you're right. Big cities have incredible
vermin problems, especially in buildings with restaurants on the first
floor. Even armored cable doesn't eliminate the problem. It just slows
them down a little. (-:
<<Squirrels will chew through plastic, lead, steel, and aluminum. I've seen
squirrels chew through "squirrel proof" cable which was a plastic sheath,
steel turnplate, plastic sheath, steel turnplate, mylar, aluminum turnplate,
mylar, then cable bundles. Right - through - it!. Less than 1 year after
I've seen what they can do in a few hours to a Havahart steel trap.
I grew up with BX cable everywhere in NYC. IMHO, it's harder to be sloppy
with armored cable. I suspect bad cable stapling causes a lot of problems
for NM sheathed wiring. At least from what I've seen in the houses I've
lived in and watching ATOH electricians. Misses with the hammer that dinged
the sheath, badly angled staples, skinned insulation and even staples
piercing the insulation are some of the things I've seen.
I lived above a restaurant in downtown DC once. It was the first time I
ever heard a cockroach walking. I heard a scratching noise under the bed,
got a flashlight, looked under it and it was like that scene in Aliens where
he pokes his head in the ceiling.
Condensing furnaces are 95% efficient, a regular furnace might be only 80%.
Condensing furnaces are more trouble prone though, by the time mine was
20 years old I had replace the draft inducer ($540) and two exhaust
pressure safety switches at $100 each.
At the end of the day, I don't think the high efficiency units actually
save any money though.
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:52:56 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org (David
A condensing furnace has 2 heat exchangers and cools the stack gasses
to the point virtually all moisture condenses out - and a blower is
required to force the exhaust out. You need either a floor drain
near-by or a condensate pump to get the water to a drain.
Virtually all "high efficiency" furnaces (92% or better) are
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:46:19 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (David Combs)
*I* don't always want GFCI. I was looking at a few houses today. One (new)
had a GFCI on the smoke alarm circuits. It may even be code, but I didn't
think it's such a good idea. I certainly would *want* that.
No need. False trips. It's a cost/benefit tradeoff.
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:46:19 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org (David
GFCI can trip for various reason, not always a fault. Not a big deal
with a toaster, just hit the reset button. With refrigerators and
heaters, if it trips while you are away, you can have a serious loss.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.